Nieuwe teksten over de Gentse draperie : wolaanvoer productiewijze en controlepraktijken (ca. 1456-1468)

Boone, Marc

doi:10.3406/bcrh.1988.1296

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“…KK, fo. 103 v ; Boone, ‘Nieuwe teksten over de Gentse draperie’; Lameere and Simont, Recueil des ordonnances , vol. V, pp.…”

Section: IIunclassified

“…KK, fo. 103 v (which I have personally examined), reprinted, with different punctuation, in Boone, ‘Nieuwe teksten over de Gentse draperie’, pp. 1–61: ‘up dmaecken ende drapieren van den finen lakene, gheheeten dickedinnen, ende andere lakenen, die men drapiert ende maect binnen der stede van Ghendt: eerst zal men maken de voorseide lakenen van fijnder maertse [Welsh Marches: Shropshire and Herefordshire] ende middelmaertse [Middle March] wulle, fijne cootswale [Cotswold], ende fine cootswale bartsiere [Cotswold‐Berkshire], ende van gheender andere’.…”

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“…87 87 Boone, ‘Nieuwe teksten’, p. 42: ‘anders de wardere ende ordonnantie van den smalle lakenen, die men maecken mach van plootwulle, lamwulle, ende schuerlinc, naer tinhouden van der lester ordonnantie’. For the 1456 ordinance on the manufacture of dickedinne and other sealed woollens, see p. 449 and n. 53, above; and nn.…”

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Spanish merino wools and the nouvelles draperies: an industrial transformation in the late medieval Low Countries¹

Munro

2005

The Economic History Review

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From the seventeenth century, the world's finest wools have been those produced by descendants of the Spanish merino. During the middle ages, however, England produced Europe's finest wools. Not until the fourteenth century does a distinct merino breed appear in Spain; and, before then, 'Spanish' wools were amongst the very worst in Europe, used in the production of only the very cheapest fabrics. By the late fourteenth century, some merino wools were being used in some Italian draperies; but, in the north, long‐held historic prejudices against 'Spanish' wools hindered their introduction, especially into the Low Countries' draperies, which, because of structural changes in international trade, had become re‐oriented to manufacturing luxury woollens, most woven from the finest English wools. From the 1420s, however, disastrous changes in England's fiscal policies so increased the cost of these exported wools that many of the younger Flemish draperies, the so‐called nouvelles draperies, producing imitations of the finer woollens from the older established draperies, decided to switch to Spanish merino wools (often mixed with English wools). By the mid‐fifteenth century, the merinos had indeed improved enough in quality to rival at least the mid‐range English wools. Most of the traditional draperies, however, did not adopt merino wools until much too late, and thus, by the early sixteenth century found themselves displaced by the nouvelle draperies as the leading cloth manufacturers in the Low Countries.

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“…KK, fo. 103 v ; Boone, ‘Nieuwe teksten over de Gentse draperie’; Lameere and Simont, Recueil des ordonnances , vol. V, pp.…”

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Spanish merino wools and the nouvelles draperies: an industrial transformation in the late medieval Low Countries¹

Munro

2005

The Economic History Review

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Organizing specialized production: gender in the medieval Flemish wool cloth industry (c. 1250–1384)

Hutton

2017

Urban History

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ABSTRACT:In the earliest centuries of the Flemish wool cloth industry, the lower-level, preparatory stage of wool processing and spinning was organized by a form of ‘putting-out’ significantly different from later forms in the industry. It took place in and around the cities or smaller drapery centres rather than in rural areas, and women were prominent as middle-level organizers, managers and small entrepreneurs, despite their marginal status in or exclusion from the craft guilds. Using small bits of evidence from Flemish regulations and contracts from the earliest documented period of cloth production, this article analyses lower-level organization through the lens of gender. It shows that the production of yarn was organized by a broad middling level of drapers and small marketsellers, who were women, men and husbands and wives working together. The gendered lens distinguishes this middle level, which was indispensable to the efficient production of wool cloth in medieval Flanders.

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Nieuwe teksten over de Gentse draperie : wolaanvoer productiewijze en controlepraktijken (ca. 1456-1468)

Cited by 2 publications

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Spanish merino wools and the nouvelles draperies: an industrial transformation in the late medieval Low Countries¹

Spanish merino wools and the nouvelles draperies: an industrial transformation in the late medieval Low Countries¹

Organizing specialized production: gender in the medieval Flemish wool cloth industry (c. 1250–1384)

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Nieuwe teksten over de Gentse draperie : wolaanvoer productiewijze en controlepraktijken (ca. 1456-1468)

Cited by 2 publications

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Spanish merino wools and the nouvelles draperies: an industrial transformation in the late medieval Low Countries1

Spanish merino wools and the nouvelles draperies: an industrial transformation in the late medieval Low Countries1

Organizing specialized production: gender in the medieval Flemish wool cloth industry (c. 1250–1384)

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Spanish merino wools and the nouvelles draperies: an industrial transformation in the late medieval Low Countries¹

Spanish merino wools and the nouvelles draperies: an industrial transformation in the late medieval Low Countries¹