Mutual interaction of the free surface and a depression on the bottom during the propagation of a gravity wave

Abstract

To know the effect of a simultaneous variation of the two influences, we will point out to the observations in a channel at. Experimental reports in a wave channel will be presented in this work. In this work will therefore ensure that the swell interacts with the bottom by validating empirical and theoretical results. Then, simultaneous measurements of the free surface and the evolution of the bottom are presented. The measurements of the free surface are carried out by the technique of fixed probes and the simultaneous monitoring of the evolution of the depression by processing of images synchronized with the measurements of the probes. We have also, developed an experimental high-sensitivity instrumentation, based on data acquisition using LabVIEW software of the resistive probe method to the perform precise measurements of free area. Pressure coefficients, reflection coefficients, transmission coefficients and filling steps as a function of time in a swell channel in the presence of a bottom depression, simultaneous monitoring of the evolution of the depression by processing images synchronized with the measurements of the probes.