Modelling of depth-induced wave breaking in a fully nonlinear free-surface potential flow model

Papoutsellis, Christos E.; Yates, Marissa; Simon, Bernard E.; Benoît, Michel

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2019.103579

Cited by 17 publications

(17 citation statements)

References 59 publications

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“…The results here are in agreement with those obtained by Papoutsellis et al (2019) using similar wave breaking parameterization approaches but with a different technique to solve the DtN problem. This test case confirms the ability of the proposed methods to simulate regular breaking waves.…”

Section: And Numerical Simulations Using Different Combinations Of Brsupporting

confidence: 89%

“…The second method (denoted HJf) is a variation of the HJ method, tested by Papoutsellis et al (2019) and here. It consists in reducing the defined spatial extent of the wave breaking dissipation zone to the wave front, from the wave crest xc to the wave front x f .…”

Section: Wave Energy Dissipation Mechanismsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Following the detection of the onset of wave breaking, several different dissipation mechanisms can be applied by adding a term to the dynamic free surface boundary condition. Over the specified spatial extent of wave breaking, the wave energy dissipation can be calculated using a surface roller model (Schäffer et al, 1993), a vorticity model (Svendsen et al, 1978), an eddy viscosity model (Kennedy et al, 2000;Kurnia and van Groesen, 2014;Papoutsellis et al, 2018bPapoutsellis et al, , 2019, or by analogy with a hydraulic jump (Guignard and Grilli, 2001;Grilli et al, 2019;Papoutsellis et al, 2019). These mechanisms require parameterizing both the definition of the onset of wave breaking and the intensity and spatial extent of the applied dissipation.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…This work builds on previous work using the wave model presented in Simon et al (2018) which has been extended with additional breaking criteria and dissipation mechanisms, as well as additional irregular wave breaking cases. It also builds on a similar fully nonlinear and dispersive potential model (Papoutsellis et al, 2019) solving the same mathematical model (Zakharov equations), but using the HCMT approach. The focus of the current study is to evaluate the accuracy of the breaking criteria and wave energy dissipation mechanisms in reproducing the propagation and transformation of irregular waves over various types of coastal bathymetries.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Comparing methods of modeling depth-induced breaking of irregular waves with a fully nonlinear potential flow approach

Simon

Papoutsellis

Benoît

et al. 2019

J. Ocean Eng. Mar. Energy

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The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes nonoverturning waves. Including the impacts of wave breaking dissipation is however possible by implementing a wave breaking initiation criterion and dissipation mechanism. Three criteria from the literature, including a geometric, kinematic, and dynamic-type criterion, are tested to determine the optimal criterion predicting the onset of wave breaking. Three wave breaking energy dissipation methods are also tested: the first two are based on the analogy of a breaking wave with a hydraulic jump, and the third one applies an eddy viscosity dissipative term. Numerical simulations are performed using combinations of the three breaking onset criteria and three dissipation methods. The simulation results are compared to observations from four laboratory experiments of regular and irregular waves breaking over a submerged bar, irregular waves breaking on a beach, and irregular waves breaking over a submerged slope. The different breaking approaches provide similar results after proper calibration. The wave transformation observed in the experiments is reproduced well, with better results for the case of regular waves than irregular waves. Moreover, the wave statistics and wave spectra are predicted well in general, and in particular for regular waves. Some differences are observed for irregular wave cases, in particular in the low-frequency range. This is attributed to incomplete absorption of the long waves in the numerical model. Otherwise, the wave spectra in the range [0.5fp, 5fp] are reproduced well, before, inside, and after the breaking zone for the three irregular wave experiments.

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Section: And Numerical Simulations Using Different Combinations Of Brsupporting

confidence: 89%

Section: Wave Energy Dissipation Mechanismsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

Comparing methods of modeling depth-induced breaking of irregular waves with a fully nonlinear potential flow approach

Simon

Papoutsellis

Benoît

et al. 2019

J. Ocean Eng. Mar. Energy

Self Cite

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show abstract

“…and Papoutsellis et al (2019) implemented and tested a similar criterion and energy absorption method in their 2-D-FNPF model. Finally, Mivehchi (2018) used a combination of maximum front slope and crest curvature as a breaking criterion in his 3-D-BEM model.…”

Section: ∕2mentioning

confidence: 99%

A Unified Breaking Onset Criterion for Surface Gravity Water Waves in Arbitrary Depth

et al. 2020

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We investigate the validity and robustness of the Barthelemy et al. (2018, https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2018.93) wave‐breaking onset prediction framework for surface gravity water waves in arbitrary water depth, including shallow water breaking over varying bathymetry. We show that the Barthelemy et al. (2018) breaking onset criterion, which they validated for deep and intermediate water depths, also segregates breaking crests from nonbreaking crests in shallow water, with subsequent breaking always following the exceedance of their proposed generic breaking threshold. We consider a number of representative wave types, including regular, irregular, solitary, and focused waves, shoaling over idealized bed topographies including an idealized bar geometry and a mildly to steeply sloping planar beach. Our results show that the new breaking onset criterion is capable of detecting single and multiple breaking events in time and space in arbitrary water depth. Further, we show that the new generic criterion provides improved skill for signaling imminent breaking onset, relative to the available kinematic or geometric breaking onset criteria in the literature. In particular, the new criterion is suitable for use in wave‐resolving models that cannot intrinsically detect the onset of wave breaking.

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Undular and broken surges in dam-break flows: a review of wave breaking strategies in a Boussinesq-type framework

Castro-Orgaz

Chanson

2020

Environ Fluid Mech

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The water waves resulting from the collapse of a dam are important unsteady free surface flows in civil and environmental engineering. Considering the basic case of ideal dam break waves in a horizontal and rectangular channel the wave patterns observed experimentally depends on the initial depths downstream (hd) and upstream (ho) of the dam. For r = hd/ho above the transition domain 0.4-0.55, the surge travelling downstream is undular, a feature described by the dispersive Serre-Green-Naghdi (SGN) equations. In contrast, for r below this transition domain, the surge is broken and it is well described by the weak solution of the Saint Venant equations, called Shallow Water Equations (SWE). Hybrid models combining SGN-SWE equations are thus used in practice, typically implementing wave breaking modules resorting to several criteria to define the onset of breaking, frequently involving case-dependent calibration of parameters. In this work, a new set of higher-order depth-averaged non-hydrostatic equations is presented. The equations consist in the SGN equations plus additional higher-order contributions originating from the variation with elevation of the velocity profile, modeled here with a Picard iteration of the potential flow equations. It is demonstrated that the higher-order terms confer wave breaking ability to the model without using any empirical parameter, such while, for r > 0.4-0.55, the model results are essentially identical to the SGN equations but, for r < 0.4-0.55, wave breaking is automatically accounted for, thereby producing broken waves as part of the solution. The transition from undular to broken surges predicted by the high-order equations is gradual and in good agreement with experimental observations. Using the solution of the new higher-order equations it was further developed a new wave breaking index based on the acceleration at the free surface to its use in hybrid SGN-SWE models.

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Modelling of depth-induced wave breaking in a fully nonlinear free-surface potential flow model

Cited by 17 publications

References 59 publications

Comparing methods of modeling depth-induced breaking of irregular waves with a fully nonlinear potential flow approach

Comparing methods of modeling depth-induced breaking of irregular waves with a fully nonlinear potential flow approach

A Unified Breaking Onset Criterion for Surface Gravity Water Waves in Arbitrary Depth

Undular and broken surges in dam-break flows: a review of wave breaking strategies in a Boussinesq-type framework

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