Modeling of on Shore Propagation of Random Water Waves

Abstract

Two numerical models are investigated to model random water waves (RWWs) transformation due to mild depth variation. Modelling of steady on-shore propagation of small-amplitude RWWs is based on superposition principle of waves of different heights and directions. Each component is simulated through either the parabolic model (PM) or the elliptic model (EM). PM simulates weak refraction, diffraction, shoaling, and wave breaking. EM simulates strong refraction, diffraction, and shoaling. Both models neglect wave reflection. Comparison between PM and EM, in test cases that are experimentally measured, proved that both models give good results for unidirectional and narrow-directional RWW. However, EM is more accurate in modelling broad-directional RWWs.

Numerical Modeling of Irregular Water Wave Transformation

“…This method is based on the assumption that waves propagate within a limited range of angles about an assumed propagation direction. Although many numerical models have been developed to study wave transformation over an irregular bathymetry based on MSE or its parabolic approximation, for example, [6][7][8], most of these models did not include the energy dissipation and hence it is not applicable in surf zone.…”