Model study of sand transport along an infinitely long, straight beach

Saville, Thorndike

doi:10.1029/tr031i004p00555

Cited by 77 publications

(32 citation statements)

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“…Refer to Ballard (1964), Fox & Davis (1974), Sauille (1950, and Terich and Komar (1974) for discussion of longshore energy flux and wave steepness.…”

Section: Research Of Bottom Current Velocities At the Astoriamentioning

confidence: 99%

Holocene geologic history of the Clatsop Plains foredune ridge complex

Rankin¹

2000

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“…Refer to Ballard (1964), Fox & Davis (1974), Sauille (1950, and Terich and Komar (1974) for discussion of longshore energy flux and wave steepness.…”

Section: Research Of Bottom Current Velocities At the Astoriamentioning

confidence: 99%

Holocene geologic history of the Clatsop Plains foredune ridge complex

Rankin¹

2000

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“…Equation 5 (del Valle, Medina, and Losada 1993) gave results generally on the same order as the CERC formula. Saville (1950) observed that for waves of identical energy levels, greater longshore transport rates occurred for waves having lower wave steepness. Ozhan (1982) found similar results in a laboratory study.…”

Section: Wave Height Bathymetrymentioning

confidence: 92%

Dependence of Total Longshore Sediment Transport Rates on Incident Wave Parameters and Breaker Type

Smith¹,

Ebersole²,

Wang³

2004

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PURPOSE:Total longshore sediment transport (LST) rate and its cross-shore distribution in the surf zone are essential to many coastal engineering and science studies. Practical engineering applications such as predicting beach response in the vicinity of coastal structures, beach-fill evolution and renourishment requirements, and sedimentation rates in navigation channels all require accurate predictions of LST rates. Present predictive tools have been developed based primarily on field studies; however, obtaining high-quality data in the field is difficult (Wang and Kraus 1999). Arguably the most widely used model for estimating total longshore sediment transport rate is the "CERC" formula (Coastal Engineering Manual 2002, Shore Protection Manual 1984, which is based on field measurements and is often applied to calculate the total LST rate. Accuracy of the CERC formula is believed to be ± 30-50 percent at best; and several parameters that logically might influence LST are excluded in the formula, such as breaker type and grain size.This CHETN summarizes results of experiments conducted in the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility (LSTF) Fowler et al. 1995) to investigate the importance of wave height, period, and breaker type (spilling and plunging breakers) on total LST and the cross-shore distribution of LST. The LSTF is capable of simulating wave conditions that are almost directly comparable to annual averages along many low-wave-energy coasts, for example a majority of estuarine beaches (Nordstrom 1992) and many beaches along the Gulf of Mexico and the Great Lakes in the United States. BACKGROUND:A common tool for predicting the total rate of longshore transport is the CERC formula. The model, based on the assumption that the total longshore sediment transport rate is proportional to longshore energy flux, is given as:

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“…In the z direction, the resulting ordinary differential equation with the two homogeneous boundary conditions is a proper Sturm-Liouville problem and it can be shown that the complete set of eigenfunctions in this coordinate direction is {cosh k c (h + z), cos k (h+z),m=l, 2...»}, with the relationships "' a 2 = gko tanh koh (7) °2 = -gk m tan kh (8) Here k is a wave number. The subscript zero is used to denote the wave mode associated with the relationship in Eq.…”

Section: Figure Spiral Wavemakermentioning

confidence: 99%

The Spiral Wavemaker for Littoral Drift Studies

Dalrymple¹,

Dean

1972

Coastal Engineering 1972

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A technique for simulating an infinitely long beach in the laboratory is introduced, with the objective of eliminating end effects usually present with short straight beach sections. The technique involves the spiral wavemaker generating waves in the center of a circular basin.The wavemaker, consisting of a vertical right-circular cylinder oscillating in a small circle about its axis, is described in detail. Theoretical developments, using small-amplitude wave assumptions, show that the surface wave crests generated by the wavemaker may be described, at a particular time, as an Archimedian-type of spiral, with the wavemaker at its origin. Also, the crests impinge on the circular beach everywhere at the same angle of incidence.Experiments with a prototype spiral wavemaker verify the theory, with close results for shallow water waves. Littoral drift applications of the wavemaker are given.

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Model study of sand transport along an infinitely long, straight beach

Cited by 77 publications

References 1 publication

Holocene geologic history of the Clatsop Plains foredune ridge complex

Holocene geologic history of the Clatsop Plains foredune ridge complex

Dependence of Total Longshore Sediment Transport Rates on Incident Wave Parameters and Breaker Type

The Spiral Wavemaker for Littoral Drift Studies

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