We study the collective dynamics of elongated swimmers in a very thin fluid layer by devising long, filamentous, non-tumbling bacteria. The strong confinement induces weak nematic alignment upon collision, which, for large enough density of cells, gives rise to global nematic order. This homogeneous but fluctuating phase, observed on the largest experimentally-accessible scale of millimeters, exhibits the properties predicted by standard models for flocking such as the Vicsek-style model of polar particles with nematic alignment: true long-range nematic order and non-trivial giant number fluctuations.PACS numbers: 47.63. Gd, 05.65.+b 87.18.Gh 87.18.Hf Collective motion of self-propelled elements, as seen in bird flocks, fish schools, bacterial swarms, etc., is so ubiquitous that it has driven physicists to search for its possibly universal properties [1][2][3]. If generic and robust features of such active matter systems exist, they should also be present in the emergent phenomena observed in simple models. Evidence for such universality has been provided by many theoretical and numerical studies of dry active matter systems where local alignment competes with noise, following the seminal works by Vicsek et al.[4], Toner, Tu , and Ramaswamy et al. [5][6][7][8][9]. It was notably understood that the transition to orientational order/collective motion, in this context, is best described as a phase-separation between a disordered gas and an ordered 'liquid' separated by a coexistence phase whose nature depends on the symmetries of the system [3,[10][11][12][13][14][15][16]. The homogeneous but highly fluctuating liquid phase is characterized by unique properties often different from those of equilibrium orientationally-ordered phases. In particular, the crucial coupling between the order and the density fields generates anomalously-large number fluctuations from the algebraic correlations of orientation and density [5][6][7][8][9].Such 'giant' number fluctuations (GNF), being relatively easy to measure experimentally, have become the landmark signature of orientationally-ordered active matter. Several experimental studies have indeed searched for GNF using controllable systems simpler than bird flocks and fish schools such as biofilaments driven by molecular motors [17], colloids consuming electric energy [18], shaken granular materials [19][20][21], monolayers of fibroblast cells [22], and common bacteria [23,24]. However, none of these experiments has been fully convincing in demonstrating the presence of bona fide GNF * nishiguchi@daisy.phys.s.u-tokyo.ac.jp as predicted from the works of Toner, Tu, Ramaswamy et al. [3, 7, 8], and observed in Vicsek-style models [10, 11, 13, 14]. These GNF have to be discussed in a fluctuating phase with global long-range orientational order and are distinct from the trivial, non-asymptotic ones present in the case of phase-separation into dense clusters sitting in a disordered sparse gas. In some experiments, only normal number fluctuations were found [17,18]. In others, GNF ...