Meso-scale transfer of sand during and after storms: implications for prediction of shoreline movement

Morton, Robert A.; Gibeaut, James C.; Paine, Jeffrey G.

doi:10.1016/0025-3227(95)00071-6

Cited by 104 publications

(65 citation statements)

References 5 publications

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“…One category measures a single morphologic proxy (e.g. shoreline position (Morton et al, 1995;Thieler and Young, 1991;Farris and List, 2007;Houser et al, 2008;Hapke et al, 2010Hapke et al, , 2016Bramato et al, 2012;Phillips et al, 2017) or dune height (Houser et al, 2008(Houser et al, , 2015Stockdon et al, 2009;Wernette et al, 2016)); whereas the other simplifies spatial information along a cross-shore profile to an averaged value (e.g. beach volume and slope) (Morton et al, 1994;Stone et al, 2004;Stockdon et al, 2007;Houser and Hamilton, 2009;Mathew et al, 2010;Scott et al, 2016).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Characterizing storm response and recovery using the beach change envelope: Fire Island, New York

et al. 2018

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Hurricane Sandy at Fire Island, New York presented unique challenges in the quantification of storm impacts using traditional metrics of coastal change, wherein measured changes (shoreline, dune crest, and volume change) did not fully reflect the substantial changes in sediment redistribution following the storm. We used a time series of beach profile data at Fire Island, New York to define a new contour-based morphologic change metric, the Beach Change Envelope (BCE). The BCE quantifies changes to the upper portion of the beach likely to sustain measurable impacts from storm waves and capture a variety of storm and post-storm beach states. We evaluated the ability of the BCE to characterize cycles of beach change by relating it to a conceptual beach recovery regime, and demonstrated that BCE width and BCE height from the profile time series correlate well with established stages of recovery. We also investigated additional applications of this metric to capture impacts from storms and human modification by applying it to several post-storm historical datasets in which impacts varied considerably; Nor'Ida (2009), Hurricane Irene (2011), Hurricane Sandy (2012), and a 2009 community replenishment. In each case, the BCE captured distinctive upper beach morphologic change characteristic of these different beach building and erosional events. Analysis of the beach state at multiple profile locations showed spatial trends in recovery consistent with recent morphologic island evolution, which other studies have linked with sediment availability and the geologic framework. Ultimately we demonstrate a new way of more effectively characterizing beach response and recovery cycles to evaluate change along sandy coasts.Published by Elsevier B.V.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Characterizing storm response and recovery using the beach change envelope: Fire Island, New York

et al. 2018

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“…The impact and vulnerability of these regions are expected to increase in the future, due to the different effects of climate change, such as the global sea level rise and the changes in the regional storm climate and the atmospheric circulation patterns. Storms are one of the natural agents that cause the most dramatic and long-lasting changes in coastal zones, despite the fact that their immediate action takes place over short time periods [1]. Thus, in order to provide a reliable scenario of the future impacts of climate change on coastal areas at a regional scale, it is important to look and understand how storm climate has evolved over the past decades, by providing a realistic analysis of the variability and trends that are associated with those extreme events.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Extreme Wave Storms and Atmospheric Variability at the Spanish Coast of the Bay of Biscay

et al. 2018

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This paper examines the characteristics and long-term variability of storminess for the Spanish coast of the Bay of Biscay for the period 1948 to 2015, by coupling wave (observed and modelled) and atmospheric datasets. The diversity of atmospheric mechanisms that are responsible for wave storms are highlighted at different spatial and temporal scales: synoptic (cyclone) and low frequency (teleconnection patterns) time scales. Two types of storms, defined mostly by wave period and storm energy, are distinguished, resulting from the distance to the forcing cyclones, and the length of the fetch area. No statistically significant trends were found for storminess and the associated atmospheric indices over the period of interest. Storminess reached a maximum around the decade of the 1980s, while less activity occurred at the beginning and end of the period of study. In addition, the results reveal that only the WEPI (West Europe Pressure Anomaly Index), EA (Eastern Atlantic), and EA/WR (Eastern Atlantic/Western Russia) teleconnection patterns are able to explain a substantial percentage of the variability in storm climate, suggesting the importance of local factors (W-E exposition of the coast) in controlling storminess in this region.

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“…During the survey period, the profiles did not present likeness to models and studies in morphological and volumetric changes in existing literature, for the cited beaches, as for example the studies of Larson e Kraus (1994), Morton et al, (1995), Lee et al, (1998), Gornitz et al, (2002), Allan e Komar (2006), Short (2006), Wright e Short (1984), Wright et al, (1985), Short (2003), Masselink e Pattiaratchi (2001), Eliot et al, (2006), Short (2006). The seasonal cycles of the beaches are attributed to variations in the levels of wave energy (Komar 1998), but not all beaches are characterized by seasonal variations of incident waves, some beaches are narrower in the summer and wider in the winter (Masselink & Pattiaratchi 2001).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 94%

Variabilidade Morfológica Interanual Da Praia De Boa Viagem, Localizada Na Região Nordeste Do Brasil

Gregório¹,

Araújo²

2008

GEO

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Boa Viagem and Pina are urban beaches highly economically important both locally and regionally providing protection for the southern coast of Recife, Pernambuco -Brazil. The objective of this paper is to study the interannual morphological changes which occur on these beaches in order to gather information on the erosion processes. For this purpose 6 topographical profiles were monitored, monthly, from August 2002 to December 2005, during spring tide. To establish the position of each profile it was considered whether the beach was protected by reefs, or not, and if there were coastal protection structures. The largest morphological variation was observed in profiles located to the extreme South and North of the area of study (profiles 1 and 5), as well as the profiles located immediately to the North of the coastal protection features (profiles 4A and 4B). Profiles located in the middle of the study area showed stability. As for sedimentary budget the following variations were observed: negative sedimentary budget in profiles P1 (-4 . Profiles 2 and 3 presented a more consistent budget than those of the profiles located at the extremities of the area (profiles 1, 4A, 4B and 5). The profiles did not present morphologic variations in the beach environment like those mentioned in conventional literature. Profiles 2-1, 3-2 e 4A-3 do not present a linear relation between rates of sedimentary budget. However a positive linear relation between profiles 4B-3 and 5-4B was observed. Variations of accretion and erosion found in this study may be related to seasonal variations in the direction of currents along the coast.

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Meso-scale transfer of sand during and after storms: implications for prediction of shoreline movement

Cited by 104 publications

References 5 publications

Characterizing storm response and recovery using the beach change envelope: Fire Island, New York

Characterizing storm response and recovery using the beach change envelope: Fire Island, New York

Extreme Wave Storms and Atmospheric Variability at the Spanish Coast of the Bay of Biscay

Variabilidade Morfológica Interanual Da Praia De Boa Viagem, Localizada Na Região Nordeste Do Brasil

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