Trans-to-cis isomerization, the key reaction in photoactive proteins, cannot usually occur through the standard one-bond-flip mechanism. Due to spatial constraints imposed by a protein environment, isomerization is likely to proceed via a “volume-conserving” mechanism in which highly-choreographed atomic motions are expected, the details of which have not yet been directly observed. Here we employ time-resolved X-ray crystallography to structurally visualize isomerization of the p-coumaric acid chromophore in photoactive yellow protein with 100 picosecond time resolution and 1.6 Å spatial resolution. The structure of the earliest intermediate (IT) resembles a highly-strained transition state in which the torsion angle is located halfway between the trans and cis isomers. The reaction trajectory of IT bifurcates into two structurally distinct cis intermediates via hula-twist and bicycle-pedal pathways. The bifurcating reaction pathways can be controlled by weakening the hydrogen bond between the chromophore and an adjacent residue via E46Q mutation, which switches off the bicycle-pedal pathway.