Mechanics of Coastal Sediment Transport

Fredsøe, Jørgen; Deigaard, Rolf

doi:10.1142/9789812385314

Cited by 272 publications

(313 citation statements)

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“…In order to predict the behaviour of sand waves, scientists are interested in developing reliable simulation models to describe their dynamics and evolution with a reductionist approach (Fredsøe and Deigaard 1993;Hulsher et al 1993;Hulsher 1996;Gerkema 2000;Besio et al 2003a, b), an universalist approach (Allen 1984;Flemming 2000) or a hierarchical approach Kocurek 1997, 1999).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Evolution of sand waves in the Messina Strait, Italy

et al. 2004

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In the present paper the morphodynamics of sand waves in the Messina Strait, Italy, is analysed by comparing data gathered during two different surveys carried out in 1991 and 2001, respectively. In particular, a morphometric analysis on the most recent data and a qualitative analysis of the differences between bottom bedform patterns, are carried out. At locations characterised by greater depths, only minor changes to the planimetric configuration of the field, i.e. crest orientation (which is seen to be orthogonal to the direction of net gross sand transport) and wave length are observed, while differences in wave length and crest direction are more evident in more shallow areas. On the other hand, wave height has significantly increased in the whole field. A possible explanation of such a change, based on the previsions of a theory which relates sand-wave growth and migration to the main components of the tidal ellipse, is provided.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Evolution of sand waves in the Messina Strait, Italy

et al. 2004

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“…Pour modéliser ce phénomène, il est important de quantifier le coefficient de diffusion turbulente des sédiments. Il est habituellement admis que ce coefficient est lié directement à la viscosité turbulente (FREDSOE & DEIGAARD, 1992 …”

Section: Actes Des Xiièmes Journées Nationales Génieunclassified

“…En génie côtier, la viscosité turbulente est obtenue soit à partir de modèles mathématiques souvent issus de la modélisation statistique de la turbulence (modèles à deux équations k-ε, k-ω, …) (FREDSOE & DEIGAARD, 1992 ;SUNTOYO & TANAKA, 2009), ou à partir des modèles analytiques ou empiriques (FREDSOE & DEIGAARD, 1992 ;LIU & SATO, 2006 ;ABSI, 2010). La figure (1) présente quelques profils de viscosité turbulente dits multicouches.…”

Section: Profils De Viscosité Turbulenteunclassified

Evaluation de profils de viscosité turbulente en couches limites oscillantes par un modèle à deux équations k-ω

Kerlidou

Andre

Absi

et al. 2012

XIIèmes Journées, Cherbourg

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“…A number of empirical relationships for the friction factor ( f w ) are available, such as f w = 0.04(a/k s ) −1/4 for values of a/k s > 50 (Fredsøe & Deigaard, 1992), where k s represents the physical roughness length of the bed and a is the orbital excursion amplitude near the bed (a = U b T/(2π)). The dependence of U b on water depth means that τ bw , like U b , increases with decreasing depth across the shelf for a given set of wave conditions.…”

Section: H T Sinh(2πh/l)mentioning

confidence: 99%

Post‐Depositional Alteration and Preservation of Sedimentary Strata

Wheatcroft

Wiberg

Alexander

et al. 2007

Continental Margin Sedimentation

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All sediment that is delivered to the seabed is subject to post-depositional alteration before it becomes part of the preserved stratigraphic record. Physical and biological processes occurring in the upper few decimetres of the seabed alter newly deposited sediment, thereby creating the fine-scale sedimentary record. The geographical region of focus is the Eel margin of northern California, where a combination of high precipitation, frequent winter storms and intense benthic biological processes exert fundamental controls on the fine-scale stratigraphy. Major findings are that:1 although the wave conditions on the Eel shelf are highly energetic, only a few millimetres to one or two centimetres of bed material are typically put in suspension during storms; 2 despite a high initial porosity (i.e. low strength), flood beds quickly become resistant to erosion; 3 shelf macrofauna show considerable resilience to deposition of flood sediment; 4 storm deposits have a low preservation potential on open continental margins; 5 episodic sedimentation is key to preservation of strata and signals produced by flood and storm events.Future insight into post-depositional alteration will benefit from focused observations and theoretical modelling that explicitly couple physical and biological processes on multiple time-scales.

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Mechanics of Coastal Sediment Transport

Cited by 272 publications

References 0 publications

Evolution of sand waves in the Messina Strait, Italy

Evolution of sand waves in the Messina Strait, Italy

Evaluation de profils de viscosité turbulente en couches limites oscillantes par un modèle à deux équations k-ω

Post‐Depositional Alteration and Preservation of Sedimentary Strata

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