Measurement and Prediction of Coastal Dune Formation on Hamamatsu-Shinohara Coast

Numerical Simulation on Sand Accumulation behind Artificial Reefs and Enhancement of Windblown Sand to Hinterland

“…Topographic changes including the accumulation of sand in the shoreward zones of the artificial reefs caused by waves and the landward transport of windblown sand from the salients after the installation of the artificial reefs were predicted using a model for predicting 3-D beach changes under combined actions of waves and wind [21]. With this model, the beach changes caused by waves occurring in the depth zone between the depth of closure (h c ) and the berm height (h R ) are predicted using the BG model [22], whereas topographic changes caused by windblown sand in the area landward of a berm top are predicted by a cellular automaton method.…”

“…However, there are few studies to predict topographic changes while taking the combined effects of waves and wind into account. Yokota et al [21] developed a model for predicting these beach changes, in which the BG model (a model for predicting 3-D beach changes due to waves based on Bagnold's concept) [22][23][24] is combined with a cellular automaton method [20]. In this study, this model was tried to apply to the prediction of beach changes on Kimigahama Beach, which is of importance in practical coastal engineering.…”

“…In Yokota et al [21], the BG model was employed, which is a model based on the concept of the equilibrium slope and is derived by an energetics approach [25,26], and there are eight types [22]. Among them, Type 8 is a model taking the effects of both wave action and nearshore currents into account ( [22], Fujiwara et al [27]).…”

“…The model of topographic changes due to windblown sand used by Yokota et al [21] is based on the cellular automaton method (Katsuki et al [20]). This model has a relatively small calculation load compared with the other models and can perform calculations.…”