Making and Trading Dress and Décor in Seventeenth-century Scotland

Abstract

In seventeenth-century Scotland textiles were made in most districts and marketed widely at home and overseas. Woollens and linens, yarn, cloth, bonnets and stockings, with clear regional specialisations, were manufactured, but they were all of low cost and quality. Comparative advantage came from low rural wages. The wide distribution and character of textile production in the seventeenth century proved of great importance for post-Union success. Among imports the variety and social spread of luxury widened and deepened, though demand was restricted to the upper classes and the middling orders in Edinburgh and other large burghs. The seventeenth century, especially the second half, was a time of widening consumption of exotic articles such as tobacco, sugar and coffee among consumables, Asian silks and cottons (and their imitations) as articles of dress, and wall-hangings and pictures as décor. The social anxiety and economic stress this engendered gave rise to sumptuary laws like that of 1681. These had limited impact, though imports remained sensitive to tariffs. The letters of Andrew Russell, a merchant resident in Rotterdam between 1668 and 1697, demonstrate how this trade was carried out in both directions, and how the market responded to governmental attempts at control.

Review of periodical literature for 2021

“…Textiles were also the subject of an article for The Scottish Historical Review this year. Smout takes us on a tour of the manufacture of textiles in seventeenth‐century Scotland, fleshing out its importance as a trade both locally and overseas. While Scottish textiles (including woollens, linens, plaids, bonnets, and stockings) were not of high quality, they nonetheless had a competitive edge as cheap alternatives to the fabrics produced in England and continental Europe.…”