Locating Value in Artisan Cheese: Reverse EngineeringTerroirfor New‐World Landscapes

Abstract

Terroir, the taste of place, is being adapted by artisan cheesemakers in the United States to reveal the range of values-agrarian, environmental, social, and gastronomic-that they believe constitute their cheese and distinguish artisan from commodity production. Some see themselves as reverse engineering terroir cheeses to create place though environmental stewardship and rural economic revitalization. But a tension is produced: while warranting projects of reterritorialization through defetishized food production, terroir marketing may risk turning the concept of "terroir" into a commodity fetish. U.S. terroir talk reveals attempts to reconcile the economic and sociomoral values that producers invest in artisan cheese.

Supply Chains and Rural Communities: Applying Terroir to American Rural Development

“…In shortened supply chain operations, the information is communicated not only through the name and label of the product as it would be done in traditional retailing (Ponte & Gibbon, 2005 Paxson, 2010). Acknowledging that producer knowledge and abilities will be essential in establishing shortened supply chains, it will also become apparent that there needs to be structural supports, such as legal economic framework, education, and infrastructure necessary for building and sustaining these alternative and embedded supply chains.…”

“…This naturally establishes these producers as a collective in order to create a product at a sustainable quality, having defined and clear qualities (Paxson, 2010), as well as the political and economic presences to negotiate for contracts and policies. Additionally, since these groups are 'naturally' formed and limited by ecological/cultural boundaries, small farmers have better opportunities to enter the supply chain and have market access.…”

“…Shortened supply chains generally establish positive gains for value-added, especially terroir products, on farm income not possible for other commodities . Direct sales enterprises such as community supported agriculture programs and farmers markets are a few popular means for producers to control the information about their products, and therefore their prices (Feagan, 2007;Paxson, 2010).…”

“…Additionally, they need to recognize these opportunities. Secondly, while many producers already strive to construct terroir, they need to be able to develop strong recognition by consumers (Paxson, 2010.This means creating knowledge for consumers and not allowing for items to be associated with the brands and images that are used by retailers and distributors (Carolan, 2004 By being able to claim and maintain product identity attached to their work and innovation, not to distribution and displays of retailers, producers can greatly benefit from differentiating their products (Carolan, 2004). Terroir helps provide justification and a theme to develop a product and to structure labeling.…”

“…As localities are often bound to the economics of agriculture production, new mechanisms of food production must also address the problems of failing rural agricultural communities. While traditional attempts at improving the economic outlook for farmers and their communities have been focused on technological improvements of production and distribution efficiencies, there has been growing interests in redirecting the economic processes in agriculture Bowen Terroir is French concept that allows for the development of a unique and differentiated agriculture product through recognition of the distinctive local ecology and culture that contributes to its taste and quality (Barham, 2003;Paxson, 2010;Trubek, 2008).When protected by government policies, these products are described as geographically indicated products (Barham, 2003;Bèrard & Marchenay 2006;Trubek, 2008). For producers seeking to develop an agriculture product, this has value as it allows them to capitalize on what already exists.…”