Localization for spatial–spectral implementations of 1D Analytic Boussinesq equations

Kurnia, R.; Groesen, E. van

doi:10.1016/j.wavemoti.2017.02.002

Cited by 12 publications

(5 citation statements)

References 45 publications

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“…The kinematic breaking measure is the ratio with theoretical breaking condition . Studies estimate the kinematic criterion (2.10) to be lower than 1 due to the onset of breaking (Wu & Nepf 2002; Kurnia & van Groesen 2017; Barthelemy et al. 2018).…”

Section: Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…with theoretical breaking condition K crit 1. Studies estimate the kinematic criterion (2.10) to be lower than 1 due to the onset of breaking (Wu & Nepf 2002;Kurnia & van Groesen 2017;Barthelemy et al 2018). For practical reasons, such as the inability to resolve wave evolution after the onset of breaking, the criterion (2.10) may be taken to be as low as K crit 0.7 (Wu & Nepf 2002;Perlin et al 2013).…”

Section: Kinematicmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Waves can break, for example through the overturning of the wave crest. The onset of wave breaking is typically characterized by a steep asymmetric wave and the formation of whitewater (due to entrained air from turbulence) at the crest tip that falls down the face of the wave (Banner et al 2014;Kurnia & van Groesen 2017). Wave breaking adds vorticity, turbulence and heat diffusion to the system (Longo et al 2017).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Extreme long waves over a varying bathymetry

Herterich

Dias

2019

J. Fluid Mech.

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Recent modelling work has shown that abrupt bathymetric transitions can produce dramatic amplifications of long waves, under the influence of both nonlinearity and dispersion. Here, the evolution of wave packets towards a vertical wall over a varying bathymetry is investigated with a one-dimensional conformal-mapping spectral code. In this system, wave breaking, runup and reflection, wave interference and bathymetric effects are highlighted. Wave breaking is examined with respect to geometric, kinematic and energetic conditions, with consistent results. The breaking strength is characterized for spilling and plunging based on initial wave period and amplitude. Non-breaking waves are amplified by reflection, interference and the bathymetry leading to large runups. In a typical example inspired by a real-world bathymetry, the maximum runup amplification approaches a factor of 12 – large enough for a 3 m amplitude wave to overtop a 30 m cliff.

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Section: Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Kinematicmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Extreme long waves over a varying bathymetry

Herterich

Dias

2019

J. Fluid Mech.

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“…Slowly varying spatial changes can be dealt with in quasi-homogeneous ways, but for nonlinear terms, and when walls or partially reflecting breakwaters are present, sharp transitions may lead to Gibbs' phenomena. These problems have been overcome in the Fourier integral operators which may include step functions; retaining the (skew-) symmetry properties of the operators in the Hamiltonian is then of most importance to get the correct operators in the dynamic equations, see [4,5].…”

Section: Spectral Implementationmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In Kurnia and van Groesen [4], approximations up to fifth order are given. Extensions include a breaking scenario, and various localization methods to deal with partially or fully reflective walls [5]. The performance of the wave code has been tested for nearly 100 different study cases for which theoretical results or measurements were available.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Spectral AB Simulations for Coastal and Ocean Engineering Applications

Kurnia

Turnip²,

Groesen

2018

Lecture Notes in Civil Engineering

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For simulating phase-resolved waves in large coastal and oceanic areas, as well as in confined coastal areas and ports, efficient, stable and accurate Boussinesq type of equations for irrotational flows are much desired. Results can also be used as input for CFD calculations on smaller domains when viscous and vorticial effects need to be included. In this contribution, we present examples of recent results using the AB (Analytic Boussinesq) model that has been developed based on consistent modelling of the Hamiltonian formulation of free surface waves. The pseudo-spectral AB code with various order of nonlinearity can deal with breaking waves and with spatial inhomogeneities such as bathymetry and harbour walls with fully or partially reflecting walls and breakwaters. A separate Radar Module can reconstruct and predict phase-resolved waves from radar images, and a Ship Module can deal with fully coupled wave-ship-structure interactions. In this paper, we illustrate the performance of simulations for three application areas: wave tank experiments, incoming waves in a harbour with deep access channel, and extreme, freak waves in Draupner seas as introduced in van Groesen et al., OEME 2017.

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High waves in Draupner seas—Part 1: numerical simulations and characterization of the seas

Groesen

Turnip²,

Kurnia

2017

J. Ocean Eng. Mar. Energy

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Extreme waves are studied in numerical simulations of the so-called Draupner seas that resemble the wave situation near the observation area of the Draupner wave, an iconic example of a freak, rogue wave. Recent new meteorological insights describe these seas as a substantial wind-generated wave system accompanied by two low-frequency lobes. With the significant wave height H s = 12 m above a depth of 70 m and the wide directional spreading over 120 • as design information, results are presented of simulations of phase resolved waves. Quantitative data are derived from 8000 waves over an area of 15 km 2 . Very high waves with crest heights exceeding 1.5 H s occur in average in 20 min timespan over an area of 0.8 km 2 . Details will be given for an isolated freak wave and a sequence of 3 freak crest heights in a group of 2 high waves. In Part 2, van Groesen and Wijaya (J Ocean Eng Mar Energy, 2017), it will be shown that 60 s before their appearance freak waves can be predicted from radar images on board of a ship that scans the surrounding area over a distance of 2 km.

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Localization for spatial–spectral implementations of 1D Analytic Boussinesq equations

Cited by 12 publications

References 45 publications

Extreme long waves over a varying bathymetry

Extreme long waves over a varying bathymetry

Spectral AB Simulations for Coastal and Ocean Engineering Applications

High waves in Draupner seas—Part 1: numerical simulations and characterization of the seas

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