Lipases: particularly effective biocatalysts for cosmetic active ingredients

Abstract

-Enzymes are the tools of choice in the on-going quest for non-pollutant processes to discover molecules for use in skin products. Amongst these biocatalysts, lipases offer considerable potential in terms of ingredient development and are of interest in skin dermocosmetic formulations possessing sensory or biological activities. Lipases have been studied for around thirty years and, in most cases, these enzymes function under what are deemed to be mild conditions, displaying remarkable efficacy particularly in terms of selectivity. This particularly effective strategy will be illustrated through typical synthesis, demonstrating how ester or amide active ingredients are obtained. Keywords: lipase / cosmetic ingredient / ester / amideRésumé -Les lipases : des biocatalyseurs particulièrement efficaces pour le développement d'ingrédients actifs cosmétiques. Dans la recherche constante de procédés non polluants pour l'obtention de molécules à visée cutanée, les enzymes constituent des outils de choix. Parmi ces biocatalyseurs, les lipases sont des options très importantes pour le développement d'ingrédients avec un intérêt pour des applications en formulation dermocosmétiques possédant des activités sensorielles ou biologiques. Les lipases ont été étudiées depuis une trentaine d'années et dans la plupart des cas, ces enzymes fonctionnent dans des conditions que l'on qualifie de douces avec des efficacités remarquables notamment liées à leurs différentes sélectivités. Cette stratégie particulièrement efficace sera illustrée par quelques exemples de synthèse d'ingrédients actifs de type esters ou amides.Mots clés : lipase / ingrédient cosmétique / ester / amide

One-Step Partially Purified Lipases (ScLipA and ScLipB) from Schizophyllum commune UTARA1 Obtained via Solid State Fermentation and Their Applications

“…As a result of their affinity to a variety of substrates, lipases possess specific characteristics for producing different products [5]. Direct esterification of glycerol with acetic acid was carried out with Sc LipA in a solvent free system with the molar ratios of 1:9, and the results were evaluated using TLC.…”

“…Enzymes are the alternative option in the continual pursuit for non-pollutant processes, moving in the direction of greener technologies [5]. As compared to chemical synthesis, biocatalysts or enzymes, which are classified as eco-friendly, are able to reduce the thermodynamic barrier that separates products from substrates and significantly lowers the energy consumption [5]. Studies of the selective triacylglycerol hydrolysis capabilities of lipases and their manipulations using diverse approaches have been reported [4] for various applications.…”

“…Studies of the selective triacylglycerol hydrolysis capabilities of lipases and their manipulations using diverse approaches have been reported [4] for various applications. Enzymes are a preferred choice due to their ability to work under mild conditions, ease of use, their production of less toxic by-products, and the fact the reactions are solvent-free or performed in an aqueous phase [5]. …”

“…Lipases are suitable for working with raw, defined, sophisticated or unstable substrates under mild conditions and produce more stable products [5]. It is appealing that under certain conditions, lipases offer a natural approach compared to chemical catalysts [5].…”

“…It is appealing that under certain conditions, lipases offer a natural approach compared to chemical catalysts [5]. Thus, this speed up the reaction processes and product procurement.…”