Limiting slopes and depths at ebb-tidal shoals

Buonaiuto, Frank; Kraus, Nicholas C.

doi:10.1016/s0378-3839(02)00160-6

Cited by 24 publications

(10 citation statements)

References 15 publications

(17 reference statements)

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“…Wave‐dominated inlets exhibit steeper slopes on their seaward margins than tide‐dominated inlets [e.g. Buonaiuto and Kraus , ]. These slopes are in general higher than those observed in beach areas.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The role of morphology and wave‐current interaction at tidal inlets: An idealized modeling analysis

2014

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The outflowing currents from tidal inlets are influenced both by the morphology of the ebbtide shoal and interaction with incident surface gravity waves. Likewise, the propagation and breaking of incident waves are affected by the morphology and the strength and structure of the outflowing current. The 3-D Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system is applied to numerically analyze the interaction between currents, waves, and bathymetry in idealized inlet configurations. The bathymetry is found to be a dominant controlling variable. In the absence of an ebb shoal and with weak wave forcing, a narrow outflow jet extends seaward with little lateral spreading. The presence of an ebb-tide shoal produces significant pressure gradients in the region of the outflow, resulting in enhanced lateral spreading of the jet. Incident waves cause lateral spreading and limit the seaward extent of the jet, due both to conversion of wave momentum flux and enhanced bottom friction. The interaction between the vorticity of the outflow jet and the wave stokes drift is also an important driving force for the lateral spreading of the plume. For weak outflows, the outflow jet is actually enhanced by strong waves when there is a channel across the bar, due to the ''return current'' effect. For both strong and weak outflows, waves increase the alongshore transport in both directions from the inlet due to the wave-induced setup over the ebb shoal. Wave breaking is more influenced by the topography of the ebb shoal than by wave-current interaction, although strong outflows show intensified breaking at the head of the main channel.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The role of morphology and wave‐current interaction at tidal inlets: An idealized modeling analysis

2014

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“…For a detailed discussion of the uncertainty associated with the discretization method of the LIDAR data at Shinnecock Inlet refer to BUONAIUTO and KRAUS (2003). Morphology change was calculated between each survey, and variations in bathymetry were contoured to determine regions of erosion or accretion, and the potential migration of various ebb shoal features.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Principal Component Analysis of Morphology Change at a Tidal Inlet: Shinnecock Inlet, New York

Buonaiuto¹,

Bokuniewicz²,

FitzGerald³

2008

Journal of Coastal Research

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“…The shape of the surface of the ebb-tidal delta also plays an important role in determining how wave energy is focused on adjacent coastal beaches and how waves propagate into the inlet. Buonaiuto and Kraus (2003) performed dense bathymetric surveys on 13 small to medium coastal inlets of the United States using the optical remote sensing technology (LIDAR, Light Detection and Ranging). The data was analysed to quantify the limiting (maximum) bottom slopes of the ebb shoal and how the tidal prism, mean wave height and wave energy determine the long-term variability of ebb delta morphologies.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Long‐term morphological impacts of the opening of a new inlet on a multiple inlet system

Pacheco

Ferreira

Williams

2011

Earth Surf Processes Landf

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In this study, the artificial opening of a new tidal inlet in an existing multiple inlet system is shown to significantly modify the adjacent nearshore and backbarrier morphology, as well as both updrift and downdrift shorelines. The study focuses on the dominant Faro-Olhão and Armona inlets in the Ria Formosa barrier island system of southern Portugal. The equilibrium state and future evolution of the system are inferred using a range of morphological and hydrodynamic indicators, including the evolution of the inlet cross-section, changes in tidal prism, and changes in the dimensions (length and area) of barrier islands. The results reveal how the morphology of an interconnected two-inlet bay system and the adjacent coastlines has evolved following the artificial opening and stabilization of Faro-Olhão inlet since 1929. A clear relationship between barrier island size, inlet cross-section/width, and tidal prism is demonstrated. Decadal time-scale changes in the tidal prism of the two interconnected inlets are shown to be the main mechanism responsible for morphological change, and have resulted in the remobilization of ebb-tidal delta sediments deposited during previous hydraulic configurations. These changes, in turn, have contributed to a narrowing of Armona inlet and an increase in the size of Culatra Island. The work highlights the importance of ebb-tidal deltas both as sand reservoirs and as conduits through which sand exchange between estuaries or lagoons and the open coast is regulated. It also shows the pivotal role of ebb-tidal deltas in trapping longshore-transported sediment and releasing it again during periods of increased wave activity. The findings have implications regarding the accurate assessment of the stability of multiple inlet systems.

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Limiting slopes and depths at ebb-tidal shoals

Cited by 24 publications

References 15 publications

The role of morphology and wave‐current interaction at tidal inlets: An idealized modeling analysis

The role of morphology and wave‐current interaction at tidal inlets: An idealized modeling analysis

Principal Component Analysis of Morphology Change at a Tidal Inlet: Shinnecock Inlet, New York

Long‐term morphological impacts of the opening of a new inlet on a multiple inlet system

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