Learning from hair moisture sorption and hysteresis

Abstract

Objective The process of moisture sorption and desorption by human hair was analysed for extracting hints on the hair structure. Methods The isotherms of moisture sorption and desorption by hair were recorded for untreated and chemically treated (permed and bleached) hair. Data of swelling were also considered. Results By examining the swelling and moisture sorption of keratin fibres, it is possible to conclude that hysteresis is quite improbably caused by capillary condensation. The mobility of the protein chains and the strength of the bonds binding water molecules to the active sites inside the matrix are proposed as causes instead. The concept of “breaking symmetry”, derived from moisture sorption– desorption data, and the method of evaluating this parameter, is proposed as a way of characterizing the chemical treatment of hair. The results show that bleaching produces a larger breaking of symmetry than perming, and this is suggested to be due to new hydrogen bonds, created as a result of the chemical treatment, replacing the original disulphide bonds, which are of different strength compared to the bonds of untreated hair. The quantitative sorption data matched well to the model of grains of matrix enveloped in layers of water molecules at increasing relative humidity, up to 100%. The analysis suggested that, aside from the glass transition event occurring at around 60%–70% relative humidity, there is another, less examined, transition occurring at around 30% relative humidity, assigned to the opening of the hair inner structure, and accommodation of more water molecules. Both transitions are reflected by corresponding changes in the fibre mechanical behaviour. Conclusion The moisture sorption–desorption by hair was shown to not only allow a quantitative differentiation among various cosmetic treatments of the hair but to also provide valuable information on the structure of the fibre.

Analysis of the hydration water on the surface of human hair using a combination of infrared absorption vibrational spectroscopy and multivariate curve resolution

“…Specifically, bleached hair tends to be more difficult to dry than chemically untreated hair because of damaged cuticles 4 . The hair loses its innate hydrophobicity due to the reduction of its natural protective layer, making it absorb more moisture 35 . In addition, our findings suggest that the hydration water on the surface of bleached hair greatly influences the difficulty of drying.…”

Biomimetics Through Bioconjugation of 16- Methylheptadecanoic Acid to Damaged Hair for Hair Barrier Recovery

“…Moisture content is an important indicator of hair health. 21 According to the contact angle results, bioconjugated 16-MHA remains on the surface of the hair even after washing. After recovery of the hydrophobicity of the hair surface with 16-MHA, the effect of strengthening the hair barrier was shown in Figs.…”

Hair relaxation after shaping – A kinetic approach

“…It may be hypothesized that the process of water entering a solid material and initiating the percolation is similar to the slow reformation of disulphide bonds that reforms the network (fibre matrix) with small, disconnected clusters of protein molecules merging into significantly larger, connected, ones. This process of reformation of the network is, thus, assumed to be analogous to the chemisorption process for water molecules, which triggers the re-arrangement of the protein chains in the matrix [17,18].…”