Lean and mean? Associations of level of performance, chronic injuries and BMI in sport climbing

Grønhaug, Gudmund

doi:10.1136/bmjsem-2018-000437

Cited by 13 publications

(12 citation statements)

References 23 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…Currently there is no known international database of climber demographics and skill level. However, the lack of participants in the elite and higher elite categories is consistent with other survey-based climbing studies and is a limitation of the current study as well as the existing body of research (Gonzalez, 2019;Grønhaug, 2019). Despite the small size of this subsample, the incidence of DE among the elite female climbers who responded to our questionnaire is striking and warrants additional research.…”

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 73%

Prevalence of Disordered Eating Among International Sport Lead Rock Climbers

Joubert

Gonzalez

Larson

2020

Front. Sports Act. Living

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Disordered eating (DE) is characterized as a range of irregular eating patterns or behaviors, which may lead to pathological eating or a clinical eating disorder diagnosis. DE patterns are associated with a variety of negative health outcomes. The prevalence of DE is highest in female athletes who participate in aesthetic or weight dependent sports. Elite rock climbers tend to be strong, small and lean, but the prevalence of DE in rock climbers is unknown. The purpose of the present study was to assess DE prevalence in a large group of international rock climbers and to explore the relationship between sport rock climbing ability and DE. A web-based survey assessed both DE (Eating Attitudes Test-26) and climbing ability based on the International Rock Climbing Research Association's position statement on comparative grading scales. The survey was distributed to international climbing communities; 810 individuals attempted the survey; 604 completed all questions; 498 identified as sport lead climbers. The majority of sport lead climbers were lower grade/intermediate (57.8%), compared to advanced (30.7%) and elite/higher elite (11.4%), and male (76.9%). Forty-three sport lead climbers reported a score of 20 or above on the EAT-26 indicating an 8.6% prevalence of DE in this sample. Male climbers had a DE prevalence of 6.3% (24 of 383) and female climbers more than doubled that with 16.5% (19 of 115). Chi-square analysis revealed that DE was associated with climbing ability level [χ 2 (2, n = 498, 8.076, p = 0.02)], and when analyzed by sex, only the female climbers had a significant relationship of DE with climbing ability [χ 2 (2, n = 115, 15.640, p = 0.00)]. These findings suggest sport lead rock climbers are not immune to DE and that the risk is elevated in female climbers, particularly at the elite/high elite climbing ability level. Our research indicates further investigations are warranted to determine if and how disordered eating behaviors affect health and performance of adult rock climbers.

show abstract

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 73%

Prevalence of Disordered Eating Among International Sport Lead Rock Climbers

Joubert

Gonzalez

Larson

2020

Front. Sports Act. Living

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…Rock climbing is categorized as a gravitational sport, and as such, there is a shared belief among the climbing community that reducing the percentage body fat and body mass will make easier to progress up a wall and reduce the strain imposed on fingers, elbows, and shoulders (18). This belief is based on the knowledge that elite climbers have typically low body mass (62.4 6 4.5 kg for male subjects and 46.8 6 4.9 kg for female subjects) and low percentage body fat (values as low as ;5% reported on 21 men and 18 women semifinalists at an elite climbing competition) (30,44).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Dietary Intakes and the Risk of Low Energy Availability in Male and Female Advanced and Elite Rock Climbers

Monedero

Duff

Egan

2022

Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Monedero, J, Duff, C, and Egan, B. Dietary intakes and the risk of low energy availability in male and female advanced and elite rock climbers. J Strength Cond Res 37(3): e8–e15, 2023—There is a culture among rock climbers of striving to maintain low body mass and percentage body fat to enhance performance. Diet practices based on this belief might lead to increased risk of low energy availability (LEA) or eating disorders (EDs). Twenty-five advanced or elite rock climbers (male, n = 14; female, n = 11) had body composition measured, completed 4-day food intake and physical activity diaries while wearing an accelerometer and heart rate monitor, and completed the Eating Attitudes Test (EAT)-26 and the Low Energy Availability in Females Questionnaire (LEAF-Q; n = 11 female subjects only). EAT-26 scores of 3.5 (1.8, 7.0) [median (IQR)] and 9.3 ± 6.4 (mean ± SD) for male and female subjects, respectively, indicated low risk of ED in this cohort, but 4 female subjects were at high risk of LEA according to LEAF-Q scores. Suboptimal (<45 kcal·kg·FFM−1·d−1) and LEA (<30 kcal·kg·FFM−1·d−1) were evident in 88 and 28%, respectively, of climbers. However, only the female climbers had energy intakes (1775 ± 351 kcal·d−1) significantly lower than their calculated energy requirements (2056 ± 254 kcal·d−1; p = 0.006). In all subjects, carbohydrate intakes were lower (male subjects: 3.8 ± 1.2 g·kg−1·d−1, p = 0.002; female subjects: 3.4 ± 0.7 g·kg−1·d−1, p < 0.001), and fat intakes were higher (male subjects: 1.6 ± 0.5 g·kg−1·d−1, p < 0.001; female subjects: 1.4 ± 0.4 g·kg−1·day−1, p < 0.001) than current sports nutrition recommendations, and inadequate intakes of calcium, magnesium, and vitamin D were observed. Female subjects specifically had lower than recommended intakes of protein and iron. These results show that advanced and elite rock climbers have a high prevalence of LEA and have a risk of having nutritional deficiencies as result of their diet.

show abstract

“…There are no associations between climbing related chronic—injury, level of performance and BMI [ 61 ].…”

Section: Results—climbingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Injuries in alpine summer sports - types, frequency and prevention: a systematic review

Bigdon

Hecht

Fairhurst

et al. 2022

BMC Sports Sci Med Rehabil

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Introduction Summer alpine sports, including mountain biking, hiking and airborne pursuits, have experienced a recent surge in popularity. Accordingly, trauma associated with these activities has increased. There is a scarcity of literature exploring clinical aspects surrounding injuries. Specifically, no single article provides a general overview, as individual studies tend to focus on one particular sport. In the present study, we performed a systematic literature review to summarize existing knowledge and explore the potential for prevention and clinical decision making in this group. Method Literature searches were performed using the PubMed and Scopus database for the most commonly ventured sports associated with injury: mountain biking, climbing, airborne sports, paragliding, and base jumping. From this search, studies were identified for qualitative and quantitative analyses. These searches were done according to PRISMA guidelines for systematic reviews. Studies were then analyzed regarding epidemiology of injuries, relevant anatomical considerations and prevention strategies were discussed. Results A broad spectrum of injury sites and mechanisms are seen in mountain biking, climbing or airborne sports. Mountain biking related injuries commonly involve the upper extremity, with fractures of the clavicle being the most common injury, followed by fractures of the hand and wrist. Scaphoid fractures remain of paramount importance in a differential diagnosis, given their often subtle clinical and radiological appearance. Paragliding, skydiving, and base jumping particularly affect transition areas of the spine, such as the thoracolumbar and the spinopelvic regions. Lower limb injuries were seen in equal frequency to spinal injuries. Regarding relative risk, mountain biking has the lowest risk for injuries, followed by climbing and airborne sports. Male alpinists are reported to be more susceptible to injuries than female alpinists. Generally, the literature surrounding hiking and water-related mountain sports is insufficient, and further work is required to elucidate injury mechanisms and effective preventative measures. A helmet seems to decrease the likelihood of face and head injuries in mountain sports and be a meaningful preventive measurement.

show abstract

Lean and mean? Associations of level of performance, chronic injuries and BMI in sport climbing

Cited by 13 publications

References 23 publications

Prevalence of Disordered Eating Among International Sport Lead Rock Climbers

Prevalence of Disordered Eating Among International Sport Lead Rock Climbers

Dietary Intakes and the Risk of Low Energy Availability in Male and Female Advanced and Elite Rock Climbers

Injuries in alpine summer sports - types, frequency and prevention: a systematic review

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About