Laboratory study on the evolution of waves parameters due to wave breaking in deep water

Liang, Shuxiu; Yihui, Zhang; Sun, Zhixin; Yanling, Chang

doi:10.1016/j.wavemoti.2016.08.010

Cited by 18 publications

(30 citation statements)

References 32 publications

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“…Along the wave train propagation, the energy decreases in higher frequencies of the controlling frequencies range and increases slightly in the peak region.When the wave trains breaks, the frequency spectrum increase in E3 ceases and begins to decrease. This is consistent with earlier studies [13,18]. Thus, the behaviour of spectral energy in E2 and E3 in intermediate and shallow water depth is close to that in deep water depth.…”

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 93%

“…Concerning Gaussian wave trains, the total energy dissipation is insignificant on the flat bottom and is around 8% for the strongest wave train GW7. The total energy keeps stable along the 5.5m for the weakest wave trains and this is consistent with earlier studies in [18]. It should be mentioned that in our experiments losses of energy are smaller than in [12].…”

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 93%

“…The characteristic frequency is a good predictor of energy transfer and frequency spectrum changes during the focused wave group propagation [18]. According to Equation (3), fs is sensitive to energy transfers as long as all the meaningful frequency components are included in its determination.…”

Section: Characteristic Frequencymentioning

confidence: 99%

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Physical Modelling of Extreme Waves: Gaussian Wave Groups and Solitary Waves in the Nearshore Zone

Abroug¹,

Abcha²,

Jarno³

et al. 2019

AAFM

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Laboratory-scale waves of two distinct types were generated in a twodimensional wave flume to model the spatial evolution of the frequency spectrum in the nearshore zone. The two generated types are Gaussian wave groups of different spectra widths and solitary waves. In the experiment, the time series of free surface elevation along the flume are obtained along a distance of 10m using wave gauges. For each Gaussian wave train, four regions were defined, namely peak, transfer, high frequency and low frequency region referred to as E1, E2, E3 and E4. The repartition was based on the maximum frequency spectrum situated in E1 at X=4m. Focusing is a complex process; this is mainly due to nonlinear energy transfer between different frequency ranges. It was concluded that the energy keeps stable in E1 and spreads toward E3 before breaking. The frequency spectrum in E2 has a decreasing trend during the wave train propagation and this is more appreciable for stronger wave breaking. After the breaking, the frequency spectrum in E2 stops decreasing. It was found also that frequency spectrum increases during the focusing process in E4. Concerning solitary waves, it was found that the frequency spectrum of the main solitary wave decreases as the wave approaches the breaking zone. Key words: Gaussian wave train/ frequency spectrum/ solitary wave/ peak frequency region/ Transfer region.Nomenclature E1, E2, E3 and E4: peak region, transfer region, high frequency region and low frequency region (Gaussian waves).Es: mains solitary wave frequency region situated between 0.7fp and 1.5fp, where fp being the peak frequency. X [m]: Distance along the flume. A' [m]: Solitary wave amplitude at the toe of the slope. A0 [m]: Solitary wave amplitude at X=4m from the wave maker. Ab [m]: local breaking height. As [m]: Solitary wave amplitude. C [m.s -1 ]: Solitary wave celerity. fc [Hz]: Center frequency.Physical modelling of extreme waves 3 fp [Hz]: Peak frequency. fs [Hz]: Characteristic frequency; Eq. 3. g [m.s -2 ]: Gravitational acceleration. h [m]: Water depth. hb [m]: local breaking depth. k [rad.m -1 ]: Wave number. S0: Global wave steepness (at X=4m from the wave maker). S(f): Frequency spectrum. Xb [m]: Breaking position. η (x, t) [m]: Free surface elevation. Δf [Hz]: Frequency stepping. φ [rad]: Phase at focusing.

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Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 93%

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 93%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Physical Modelling of Extreme Waves: Gaussian Wave Groups and Solitary Waves in the Nearshore Zone

Abroug¹,

Abcha²,

Jarno³

et al. 2019

AAFM

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…Recently, Liang et al (2017) [19] studied the spatial evolution of the peak frequency for In the literature, it is commonly agreed that the spectral peak downshift is caused by a combination of nonlinear wave modulation, dissipation and breaking. The spectrum energy tends to shift to a lower frequency as the wave train propagates along the flume due to the sideband instability.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Most of the aforementioned studies were conducted for deep water conditions, with wave trains often derived from unrealistic spectrum shapes, such as constant wave amplitude (CWA) [2,4,19], constant wave steepness (CWS) [19] and Gaussian distribution [20]. To the authors' knowledge, neither study has attempted to quantify the spectral change resulting from the propagation of realistic spectrum wave trains in the nearshore zone.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Experimental and numerical study of the propagation of focused wave groups in the nearshore zone

et al. 2020

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The propagation of focused wave groups in intermediate water depth and the shoaling zone is experimentally and numerically considered in this paper. The experiments are carried out in a two-dimensional wave flume and wave trains derived from Pierson-Moskowitz and JONSWAP spectrum are generated. The peak frequency does not change during the wave train propagation for Pierson-Moskowitz waves; however, a downshift of this peak is observed for JONSWAP waves. An energy partitioning is performed in order to track the spatial evolution of energy. Four energy regions are defined for each spectrum type. A nonlinear energy transfer between different spectral regions as the wave train propagates is demonstrated and quantified. Numerical simulations are conducted using a modified Boussinesq model for long waves in shallow waters of varying depth. Experimental results are in satisfactory agreement with numerical predictions, especially in the case of wave trains derived from JONSWAP spectrum.

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An experimental comparison of the velocities and energies of focused spilling waves in deep water

Liang

Sun

et al. 2020

Ocean Dynamics

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Laboratory study on the evolution of waves parameters due to wave breaking in deep water

Cited by 18 publications

References 32 publications

Physical Modelling of Extreme Waves: Gaussian Wave Groups and Solitary Waves in the Nearshore Zone

Physical Modelling of Extreme Waves: Gaussian Wave Groups and Solitary Waves in the Nearshore Zone

Experimental and numerical study of the propagation of focused wave groups in the nearshore zone

An experimental comparison of the velocities and energies of focused spilling waves in deep water

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