Laboratory studies of wave‐current interaction: Kinematics of the strong interaction

Lai, R. J.; Long, Steven; Huang, Norden E.

doi:10.1029/jc094ic11p16201

Cited by 66 publications

(69 citation statements)

References 20 publications

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“…In the laboratory experiment (Huang et al,1972), it displayed the relative importance of wave-current interaction is decided by the nondimensional parameter 0 / U C with U as the current velocity and 0 C the wave speed without the current. The kinematics of the strong interaction in the wave-current motion were measured by Lai et al(1989). Their results confirmed the critical 0 / U C with the currents induced the blockage of waves is -0.25.…”

supporting

confidence: 61%

Energy Dissipation of Wave-Uniform Current Over a Rigid Porous Media With Finite Thickness

Lin

Hsu

Yu³

et al. 2014

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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The linear wave theory and the nonlinear-unsteady porous flow model are applied to analyze the energy dissipation and the bed pore water pressure induced by the interaction of wave, uniform current and porous bottom without considering the nonlinear waves and the viscosity effect inside the boundary layer. In this model, the linear, inertial and turbulent resistances are combined into a linearized resistance coefficient and the present system can be analyzed by a linear boundary value problem. The numerical result is quite agreement with the existing experimental data. It shows that the energy dissipation is reduced by the Doppler shift and the distribution of energy loss moves to the lower relative water depth region in the wave-following current. On the other hand, the bed pore water pressure in the wave-following current is always lager than that in the pure wave and the wave-opposing current.Keywords：wave-current interaction, rigid porous medium, nonlinear-unsteady porous flow model, energy dissipation 1.IntroductionThe Doppler shift is the relative motion which is the change in the frequency of waves for an observer moving relative to the source. In the water wave, it represents the wave-current interaction. Non-uniform or uniform currents influence the characteristics of waves. The speed and wavelength are increased in waves encountering a favorable current and vice verse for the opposing current (Nielsen, 2012).A lot of theoretical and experimental studies for wave-varying current interaction in the infinite and finite water depth with the smooth impermeable seabed had been performed. Typical samples are found in Stewart(1960,1961), Jonsson et al.(1970Jonsson et al.( ,1978, Jonsson(1977), Peregrine(1976), Thomas(1981Thomas( ,1990, Baddourand Song (1990), Groeneweg and Battjes (2003) (2013, 2014) used the perturbation approach to analyze the high-order nonlinear wave-current interaction in 3D Lagrangian scheme, and the mass transport velocity and the particle orbit both were measured in the 1D wave-current tank. In the laboratory experiment (Huang et al.,1972), it displayed the relative importance of wave-current interaction is decided by the nondimensional parameter 0 / U C with U as the current velocity and 0 C the wave speed without the current. The kinematics of the strong interaction in the wave-current motion were measured by Lai et al.(1989). Their results confirmed the critical 0 / U C with the currents induced the blockage of waves is -0.25. Soares and Pablo (2006) carried out an experimental study for the wave-current motion, and determined the change of wave spectra due to the coexistence of wave-current in the 3D wave basin. The experimental results showed that the energy absorbed by waves in the opposing current is impossible to continue the growth, and it is up to a certain limit, eventually resulting in wave breaking. However, the porous seabed and the energy dissipation are not considered in there existing studies.The experiment for the wave-current interaction over a rough bed was perfo...

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supporting

confidence: 61%

Energy Dissipation of Wave-Uniform Current Over a Rigid Porous Media With Finite Thickness

Lin

Hsu

Yu³

et al. 2014

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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“…Moreover, when waves propagate over an area of increasing adverse current (positive current gradient), the wavelength is forced to shrink with a concurrent increase of the wavenumber and wave height (see Peregrine, 1976). This results in an enhancement of the wave steepness, which is suspected to make nonlinear processes, such as the modulational instability mechanism and hence extreme waves, more likely (see, for example, Gerber, 1987;Lai et al, 1989;Stocker and Peregrine, 1999;Lavrenov and Porubov, 2006;Tamura et al, 2008). Using numerical simulation of cubic nonlinear dynamics, in this respect, Janssen and Herbers (2009) and Hjelmervik and Trulsen (2009) have tried to quantify the effect of a nonuniform current on the probability of occurrence of extreme waves.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Occurrence of extreme waves in three-dimensional mechanically generated wave fields propagating over an oblique current

Toffoli

Cavaleri

Babanin

et al. 2011

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract.Laboratory experiments were performed to study the dynamics of three-dimensional mechanically generated waves propagating over an oblique current in partial opposition. The flow velocity varied along the mean wave direction of propagation with an increasing trend between the wave-maker and the centre of the tank. Tests with regular wave packets traversing the area of positive current gradient showed that the concurrent increase of wave steepness triggered modulational instability on otherwise stable wave trains and hence induced the development of very large amplitude waves. In random directional wave fields, the presence of the oblique current resulted in a weak reinforcement of wave instability with a subsequent increase of the probability of occurrence of extreme events. This seems to partially compensate the suppression of strongly non-Gaussian properties due to directional energy distribution.

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“…Furthermore, a spectral approach leads to continuous non-crossing characteristics in (x-k) space, indicating that no singularity exists in a spectral description of wave propagation. Laboratory observations of wave blocking (Lai et al, 1989;Chawla and Kirby, 2002;Suastika and Battjes, 2005) clearly validate the concept of a blocking point. However, the mechanism by which the wave energy is `removed' at the blocking point does not seem to be understood yet.…”

Section: Waves Blockingmentioning

confidence: 84%

Wave modelling – The state of the art

Cavaleri¹,

Alves²,

Ardhuin³

et al. 2007

Progress in Oceanography

443

177

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This paper is the product of the wave modelling community and it tries to make a picture of the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent results and looking ahead towards the solution of the problems we presently face. Both theory and applications are considered.The many faces of the subject imply separate discussions. This is reflected into the single sections, seven of them, each dealing with a specific topic, the whole providing a broad and solid overview of the present state of the art. After an introduction framing the problem and the approach we followed, we deal in sequence with the following subjects: (Section) 2, generation by wind; 3, non-linear interactions in deep water; 4, white-capping dissipation; 5, non-linear interactions in shallow water; 6, dissipation at the sea bottom; 7, wave propagation; 8, numerics. The two final sections, 9 and 10, summarize the present situation from a general point of view and try to look at the future developments. Keywords

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Laboratory studies of wave‐current interaction: Kinematics of the strong interaction

Cited by 66 publications

References 20 publications

Energy Dissipation of Wave-Uniform Current Over a Rigid Porous Media With Finite Thickness

Energy Dissipation of Wave-Uniform Current Over a Rigid Porous Media With Finite Thickness

Occurrence of extreme waves in three-dimensional mechanically generated wave fields propagating over an oblique current

Wave modelling – The state of the art

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