Investigations of the historic textiles excavated from Ancient Ainos (Enez – Turkey) by multiple analytical techniques

Akyüz, Sevim; Akyüz, Tanıl; Cakan, Banu; Bașaran, Sait

doi:10.1016/j.molstruc.2014.03.068

Cited by 21 publications

(10 citation statements)

References 35 publications

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“…The IR band components in the 1662–1686 cm −1 region reflect the contribution of β-turn. Thus, the samples were unequivocally animal fibres [ 24 ]. Moreover, observation of the 640–650 cm −1 and 590–525 cm −1 bands, designated to ν (C-S) stretching vibrations, indicates that the thread samples are woollen fibres [ 25 ].…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Chromatographic and Spectroscopic Identification and Recognition of Natural Dyes, Uncommon Dyestuff Components, and Mordants: Case Study of a 16th Century Carpet with Chintamani Motifs

Otłowska

Ślebioda²,

Kot‐Wasik

et al. 2018

Molecules

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A multi-tool analytical practice was used for the characterisation of a 16th century carpet manufactured in Cairo. A mild extraction method with hydrofluoric acid has been evaluated in order to isolate intact flavonoids and their glycosides, anthraquinones, tannins, and indigoids from fibre samples. High-performance liquid chromatography coupled to spectroscopic and mass spectrometric detectors was used for the identification of possible marker compounds with special attention paid to natural dyes present in the historical samples. Weld, young fustic, and soluble redwood dye were identified as the dye sources in yellow thread samples. Based on the developed method, it was possible to establish that red fibres were coloured with lac dye, whereas green fibre shades were obtained with indigo and weld. Tannin-containing plant material in combination with indigo and weld were used to obtain the brown hue of the thread. Hyphenation of high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (QTOF MS) and triple-quadrupole mass spectrometry (QqQ MS) enabled us to recognise four uncommon and thus-far unknown dye components that were also found in the historical samples. These compounds probably represent a unique fingerprint of dyed threads manufactured in a Turkish workshop. Scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray detector (SEM-EDS) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) were used for the identification and characterisation of substrates and mordants present in the historical carpet. Carbon and oxygen were detected in large quantities as a part of the wool protein. The presence of aluminium, iron, and calcium indicated their usage as mordants. Trace amounts of copper, silica, and magnesium might originate from the contaminants. FT-IR analysis showed bands characteristic for woollen fibres and SEM micrographs defined the structure of the wool.

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Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Chromatographic and Spectroscopic Identification and Recognition of Natural Dyes, Uncommon Dyestuff Components, and Mordants: Case Study of a 16th Century Carpet with Chintamani Motifs

Otłowska

Ślebioda²,

Kot‐Wasik

et al. 2018

Molecules

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“…Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) can be employed to analyze fiber morphology of higher magnification, and with considerably better depth of focus. 64,66–68 The common changes in morphology of fibers, caused by biodeterioration, that are possible to identify using SEM are surface damage, scratches, large slights, holes, and transverse cracking of fibers. SEM was also successfully employed for a number of studies, such as investigating wool fiber development in pre-Roman Italy 69 and biodegradation of the fabric of soldiers' uniforms.…”

Section: Methods For Analyzing Historical Textile Materialsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…67,87 An interesting comparison of ATR FT-IR and FT-IR with the standard KBr pellet technique in an investigation of historic textiles excavated from Ancient Ainos was described by Akyuz et al. 68 FT-IR has been successfully applied to analyze the effects of hydrogen peroxide treatment on wool fabrics, 88 the detection of functional groups typical of deteriorated cellulose, 89 and the identification of dyes and organic stains. 90 Near-infrared spectroscopy (NIR) is a spectroscopic technique that was found to be useful in the analyses of contemporary and historical materials within textile collections.…”

Section: Methods For Analyzing Historical Textile Materialsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Historical textiles – a review of microbial deterioration analysis and disinfection methods

Gutarowska

Pietrzak

Machnowski

et al. 2016

Textile Research Journal

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All historical textile materials, due to their chemical composition (cellulose, protein), under conditions of high humidity are potentially exposed to microbial degradation. Numerous examples of microbial deterioration of archaeological textile materials demonstrate the need for the use of modern analytical methods for examination of diversity of organisms inhabiting them, as well as an analysis of their behavior. It is recommended that objects with a high degree of microbiological contamination are disinfected before being incorporated to a collection. Today, due to the progress in research on the effects of disinfection on historical material, risks to health and the environment, new methods of disinfection are still being developed. The presented literature review describes the testing methods of microbial deterioration of historical textile materials, including the latest methods for assessing biodiversity (called Next Generation Sequencing) and properties of historical textiles (chemical, microscopic, mechanical). It is particularly suitable for conservators and scientists who are interested in biodeterioration, disinfection technology, and maintenance problems of this type. Characteristics of test methods and disinfection include their application to historical objects, description, advantages, and disadvantages, as well as directions for future studies that aim to even better protect cultural heritage using the latest scientific and technical innovations.

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“…During the excavations in 2005-2006 years held at the site of Chapel Gregorios Neokaiserias some textile specimens were found. In our previous study [1] the textile fibres were identified as Bombyx mori silk. Textile specimens were composed of metal and silk parts.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Protein Structure Predictions of historical silk textiles by ATR FTIR spectroscopy

Cakan¹,

Bașaran²,

Akyüz³

et al. 2015

Third International Conference on Advances in Bio-Informatics, Bio-Technology and Environmental Engineering- ABBE 2015

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In this study some historical silk textiles were investigated using Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. The main aim of our research was to investigate conformational changes of silk protein, fibroin, caused by ageing depending on environmental conditions. Silk textiles obtained from the wall decorations of an Ottoman Kiosk (Istanbul-Turkey) and some excavated silk textile specimens obtained from Ancient Ainos excavations were investigated in comparison with those of new and 100 years old Bombyx mori silk specimens. It was found that structural transformations from β-sheet domain to β-turn and random coil conformations occur due to degradation. It was shown that IR spectroscopy provides a quantification of degradation of silk objects.

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Investigations of the historic textiles excavated from Ancient Ainos (Enez – Turkey) by multiple analytical techniques

Cited by 21 publications

References 35 publications

Chromatographic and Spectroscopic Identification and Recognition of Natural Dyes, Uncommon Dyestuff Components, and Mordants: Case Study of a 16th Century Carpet with Chintamani Motifs

Chromatographic and Spectroscopic Identification and Recognition of Natural Dyes, Uncommon Dyestuff Components, and Mordants: Case Study of a 16th Century Carpet with Chintamani Motifs

Historical textiles – a review of microbial deterioration analysis and disinfection methods

Protein Structure Predictions of historical silk textiles by ATR FTIR spectroscopy

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