Investigation of interactions between fabric performance, sewing process parameters and seam pucker of shirt fabric

Abstract

Seam pucker is a common problem in sewing. It not only affects the appearance of product, but also affects product performance. The purpose of this study is to quantify the complex dynamic interactions between fabric performance, sewing process parameters and seam pucker. In order to solve the problem of shirt seam pucker, this study selected four kinds of shirt fabrics, three kinds of polyester sewing threads, three kinds of stitch density and four kinds of seam types for experiments. Through unitary regression analysis, the subjective and objective evaluation results are consistent. Further analysis the results of objective experiment revealed that fabric performances, seams type, sewing thread and stitch densities all have impact on seam pucker. Meanwhile also find out the sewing process parameters for the four fabrics when the seam shrinkage’s were smallest, so it’s helpful for the apparel enterprises to improve seam quality. Multiple linear regression analysis of experimental results show that fabric performances has the greatest influence on seam pucker, thickness, weight and warp density of fabric properties significantly affect seam pucker. And as the breaking elongation of sewing thread increases, seam pucker also increases. Stitch densities and seam type has the least affected on seam pucker, they affect the seam pucker by changing the extension of stitch and thickness of fabric at the seam, respectively. Seam type has greater impact on fabrics that are prone to seam pucker, seam type T1 get larger seam shrinkage than T4. Finally, the complex dynamic interactions was quantified and expressed through mathematical models.

The Effect of Selected Factors on the Strength of Stitches of Upholstery Faux Leather

“…Relationships between yarn tension, types of sewing threads and seam quality, the impact of fabric parameters and properties on a 2D cutting and stitching line are presented in work [ 5 , 6 ]. Scientific works investigate the effects of the type of stitches on the strength of the sewing, the effect of the mechanical properties of cotton fabrics on the quality of the sewn joints, while claiming that the quality of the sewn joints depends on the strength, stretchability and density of the fabric being joined [ 7 , 8 ]. To minimize the deformations in the fabric in the seams and to keep the seam strong and durable if possible, it is necessary to select an appropriate sewing thread, stitch length, and other parameters such as needle characteristics, thread tension, and stitch type [ 9 , 10 , 11 ].…”

A comprehensive study on the effect of different seam parameters on woven fabrics

“…When the machine settings are kept constant, the most important factors affecting the sewing quality are the production method, strength, thickness, and needle thickness of the sewing thread. 8 Sewing defects can be encountered for many reasons. For a systematic and sustainable production, it is necessary to act in accordance with the fabric thickness, fiber composition, and fabric construction in sewing.…”

Simulation and prediction of seam puckering in the layers of woven fabrics using a yarn-level model

“…They used parameters such as the 'pucker amplitude' and 'pucker wavelength' to evaluate the intensity of seam pucker. Chen et al (2021), Toshikij et al (2019 and Musazadegan and Latifi (2018) studied the parameters that affect the formation of seam puckers. Stylios and Lloyd (1989) concentrated on structural jamming pucker and investigated the effect of the properties of yarn and fabric Simulation and prediction of seam puckering on the occurrence of this type of puckering.…”