Introduction to the Special Issue on Breaking Waves

Kalisch, Henrik; Ricchiuto, Mario; Bonneton, Philippe; Lubin, Pierre

doi:10.1016/j.euromechflu.2018.11.007

Cited by 5 publications

(4 citation statements)

References 98 publications

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“…The main objective was to analyze the numerical results to improve the description of the initiation of the wave breaking event, in order to be in a situation to better simulate such an event when tackling large coastal areas. Indeed, recent modeling attempts are struggling with the lack of physical knowledge of the finest details of the breaking processes [1,23,31].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Numerical Simulations of Waves Breaking over a Rectangular Submerged Reef Consisting of a Double Step: Analogies with massive Natural Wave Breaking over Abrupt Bathymetries

Desmons

Lubin

2022

Water Waves

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Numerical Simulations of Waves Breaking over a Rectangular Submerged Reef Consisting of a Double Step: Analogies with massive Natural Wave Breaking over Abrupt Bathymetries

Desmons

Lubin

2022

Water Waves

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“…In effect, if we let the fluid particle velocity at the leading wavecrest of the bore be U = U (x, η(x, t), t), and the local phase velocity of the wavecrest be C, then the wave starts spilling when U /C > 1. The kinematic wave breaking criterion is one of the simplest diagnostics for predicting the onset of wave breaking (see [28,49] and the references therein), and has been shown to work well in a number of situations [25,27,29].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave Breaking in Undular Bores with Shear Flows

et al. 2021

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It is well known that weak hydraulic jumps and bores develop a growing number of surface oscillations behind the bore front. Defining the bore strength as the ratio of the head of the undular bore to the undisturbed depth, it was found in the classic work of Favre (Ondes de Translation. Dunod, Paris, 1935) that the regime of laminar flow is demarcated from the regime of partially turbulent flows by a sharply defined value 0.281. This critical bore strength is characterized by the eventual breaking of the leading wave of the bore front. Compared to the flow depth in the wave flume, the waves developing behind the bore front are long and of small amplitude, and it can be shown that the situation can be described approximately using the well known Kortweg–de Vries equation. In the present contribution, it is shown that if a shear flow is incorporated into the KdV equation, and a kinematic breaking criterion is used to test whether the waves are spilling, then the critical bore strength can be found theoretically within an error of less than ten percent.

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“…The second category of this special issue deals with the topic of wave breaking. This is a very wide and active field of research [12]. The contributions in this issue are concerned with wave breaking at the surface of the ocean and not with the breaking of internal waves which is also an important phenomenon and is connected to global ocean circulation [19].…”

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confidence: 99%

“…The contributions in this issue are concerned with wave breaking at the surface of the ocean and not with the breaking of internal waves which is also an important phenomenon and is connected to global ocean circulation [19]. Problems arising from fundamental research and real applications in coastal environments demand accurate descriptions of both breaking inception and the details of the breaking process [1,[12][13][14]16,18]. The directions of research that the works of this issue attempt to contribute are the identification and classification of different type of wave breaking [6], the reduction of the computational cost in the accurate description of wave breaking using non hydrostatic Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equations [10], and the understanding of the wave breaking closures for Boussinesq type models [11].…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%