Interaction of vitamins C and E as better cosmeceuticals

Abstract

Although many cosmeceutical formulations contain vitamin C and/or vitamin E, very few are actually effective in topical application. First because there is only a low concentration, second because the stability is compromised as soon as the product is opened and exposed to air and light, and third because the form of the molecule (an ester or a mixture of isomers) is not absorbed or metabolized effectively by the skin. However, when a stable formulation delivers a high concentration of the nonesterified, optimal isomer of the antioxidant, vitamins C and E do indeed inhibit the acute ultraviolet (UV) damage of erythema, sunburn, and tanning as well as chronic UV photoaging and skin cancer. Both are highly effective depigmenting agents. Topical vitamin C also increases collagen synthesis in both young and old fibroblasts. Because vitamin C regenerates oxidized vitamin E, the combination in a cosmeceutical formulation is synergistic - particularly in UV protection.

Permeation Enhancement of Ascorbic Acid by Self-Dissolving Micropile Array Tip through Rat Skin

“…2) To conquer this problem, percutaneous delivery of AA has been challenged. The advantage of percutaneous delivery of AA is (1) to obtain high concentration of AA in the skin and (2) to escape the hepatic first-pass effect before reaching to the systemic circulation.…”

“…[1][2][3][4] AA was shown to be absorbed from the gastrointestinal tract by an active transport system, though limited amount of AA was transported by this system. 5) In addition, after AA was absorbed, AA was rapidly eliminated from the body by the oxidative metabolism through both enzymatic and nonenzymatic processes.…”

Modified Cellulose Nanocrystal for Vitamin C Delivery

“…An effective antioxidant in biological systems is vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) that serves as a cofactor in hydroxylation reactions and scavenges reactive oxygen species (2). Similar to other important antioxidants, vitamin C is only provided exogenously, therefore, topical application of vitamin C is beneficial as a protector for the skin (3).…”

“…The optimum pH of the formulations is~3.5 (3). In order to attain an effective vitamin C topical formulation with the aforementioned requirements, developing formulations that enhance the stability of vitamin C is required.…”

“…Despite several cosmeceutical formulations containing vitamin C on the market, very few are topically effective. The major drawbacks in the design of these formulations are: (1) low concentration of vitamin C in the formulations; (2) incomplete absorption and metabolism of different forms of vitamin C (mixture of isomers or ester) by the skin; and (3) chemical instability of vitamin C once the product is opened (3,8). Vitamin C is easily oxidized to dehydroascorbic acid (DHA) due to exposure to air, light, and high temperature, which results in a short shelf time of formulations containing vitamin C (9).…”