Interaction between breaking/broken waves and infragravity-scale phenomena to control sediment suspension transport in the surf zone

Low Frequency Waves Detected in a Large Wave Flume under Irregular Waves with Different Grouping Factor and Combination of Regular Waves

“…As termed by Russell [61] and Smith and Mocke [62], LFWs are powerful agents of sediment transport as they remove large amounts of the sediment which is put into suspensions by the short (wind) waves.…”

“…Hence, in erosive conditions the beach is moving more rapidly toward an approximate equilibrium profile, and the mean beachface slope change induced by erosion of sediment provide some local deposition/positive slope change. As termed by Russell [61] and Smith and Mocke [62], LFWs are powerful agents of sediment transport as they remove large amounts of the sediment which is put into suspensions by the short (wind) waves.…”

Field investigations on port non-tranquility caused by infra-gravity water waves

“…It had been shown based on field measurements that the surface fluctuations in shallow water can be dominated by infra-gravity wave energy. The change of the coastal morphology may also be caused by these low frequency long waves (Osborne and Greenwood, 1992;O'Hare and Huntley, 1994;Ciriano et al 2005, Smith andMocke, 2002). Fujinawa (1979) presented field observation for long ocean waves with periods of one to several minutes at a marine observation tower.…”

Infragravity wave contribution to surf zone sediment transport — The role of advection

“…large H/h), the vortices may impinge on the seabed and thus significantly increase the local bed shear stress. Field observations (Yu et al, 1993;Smith and Mocke, 2002) have shown that a breaking wave causes an instantaneously increased local near-bed sediment concentration and Aagaard and Hughes (2003) obtained a linear relationship between the local relative wave height (H/h) and the local suspended sediment concentration.…”