Individual wave height and wave crest distributions based on field measurements from the northern North Sea

Investigation of Wave Height Distributions and Characteristic Wave Periods in Coastal Environments

“…(2010) and Kvingedal et al. (2018) have also found it to be reliable, we find that it has low errors (of the order of 7% or less) only for H 1/3 and H 1/10 . For larger characteristic wave heights, the errors are much larger.…”

“…It is interesting to note that this two-parameter Weibull model, although calibrated on the basis of Gulf of Mexico hurricane data, is as accurate, in several instances, as more complex (spectrum-dependent) models in predicting wave heights around the coast of United Kingdom. At other locations, too, Casas-Prat and Holthuijsen (2010) and Kvingedal et al (2018), observed that this model agrees well with the data. Nevertheless, it must be recognized that maximum likelihood (ML) estimates for the scale (β) and shape (α) parameters, computed using the measurements, exhibit significant variability.…”

“…The higher accuracy of the spectrum-dependent Naess (1985) model in some cases bolsters the argument for the modeling agencies to provide the spectrum by way of output, in addition to the usual bulk parameters; this would enable model output users to then use such a distribution to estimate the desired H 1/n . But in case only H s is available, the original Weibull model of Forristall (1978) provides better estimates than the often-used 2010) and Kvingedal et al (2018) have also found it to be reliable, we find that it has low errors (of the order of 7% or less) only for H 1/3 and H 1/10 . For larger characteristic wave heights, the errors are much larger.…”

“…However, as noted by these researchers and by Tayfun and Fedele (2007), nonlinear effects appear to influence wave crest measurements; their effect on wave height measurements is minimal. Second, the sampling interval has an impact on the accuracy with which the wave heights and crests are measured (Tayfun, 1983; Zheng et al., 2006) and some recent efforts are based on high sampling rates, of the order of 4 Hz or better (e.g., Karmpadakis et al., 2020; Kvingedal et al., 2018). In the present study, the raw data were obtained at 3.84 Hz, however the spectra and time series were subsequently based on a 1.28 Hz resampling.…”

The 1st International Workshop on Waves, Storm Surges and Coastal Hazards incorporating the 15th International Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Forecasting

“…Knowledge about the statistics of waves, in particular extreme waves, is required for the design and operation of offshore structures, and two papers in this collection address aspects of this issue. Kvingedal et al (2018) note that, typically, standard models are applied, such as secondorder models for the statistics of wave heights and crest heights and regular wave theory for prediction of loads. However, recent research indicates that crest heights may be larger than the standard models specify, due to (1) higher-order effects and (2) area effects.…”