In vitro skin permeation of sunscreen agents from O/W emulsions

Abstract

The effects of different emulsifiers on the in vitro permeation through human skin of two sunscreen agents [octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC) and butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (BMBM)] were investigated from O/W emulsions. The test formulations were prepared using the same oil and aqueous phase ingredients and the following emulsifier and coemulsifier systems: Emulgade SE((R)) (ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20 and cetearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate) and glycerylmonostearate (emulsion 1); Brij 72((R)) (steareth-2), Brij 721((R)) (steareth-21) and cetearyl alcohol (emulsion 2); Phytocream((R)) (potassium palmitoyl-hydrolysed wheat protein and glyceryl stearate and cetearyl alcohol) and glycerylmonostearate (emulsion 3); Montanov 68((R)) (cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol) (emulsion 4); Xalifin-15((R)) (C(15-20) acid PEG-8 ester) and cetearyl alcohol (emulsion 5). The cumulative amount of OMC that permeated in vitro through human skin after 22 h from the formulations being tested decreased in the order 3 > 1 congruent with 4 > 5 > 2 and was about nine-fold higher from emulsion 3 compared with that from emulsion 2. As regards BMBM, no significant difference was observed as regards its skin permeation from emulsions 1, 3, 4 and 5, whereas formulation 2 allowed significantly lower amounts of BMBM to permeate the skin. In vitro release experiments of OMC and BMBM from emulsions 1-6 through cellulose acetate membranes showed that only emulsions 4 and 5 provided pseudo-first-order release rates only for OMC. The results of this study suggest that the type of emulsifying systems used to prepare an O/W emulsion may strongly affect sunscreen skin permeation from these formulations. Therefore, the vehicle effects should be carefully considered in the formulation of sunscreen products.

Skin absorption and human exposure estimation of three widely discussed UV filters in sunscreens – In vitro study mimicking real-life consumer habits

“…Several authors have demonstrated that BP3 can pass through the skin in significant amount (Gupta et al, 1999;Potard et al, 1999;Fernandez et al, 2000;Kurul and Hekimoģlu, 2001;Janjua et al, 2004;Gonzales et al, 2006;Calafat et al, 2008;Klinubol et al, 2008;SCCP, 2008;Gulbake et al, 2010;Kunisue et al, 2010Kunisue et al, , 2012Liao and Kannan, 2014;Watanabe et al, 2015). Both significant (Gupta et al, 1999;Janjua et al, 2004;Jim enez et al, 2004;Iannuccelli et al, 2008;Klinubol et al, 2008;Montenegro et al, 2008;Durand et al, 2009;Vettor et al, 2010;Scalia et al, 2011) and insignificant (Potard et al, 1999;Simeoni et al, 2004) skin permeation of EHMC or BMDBM were reported. However, the experimental conditions used in some of the cited studies were far from the real-life habits of consumers (see Sections 3.3 and 3.4).…”

“…Jim enez et al (2004), studying the permeability of EHMC (5%) from various vehicles to the ex-vivo flank pig skin, used 8 mg/cm 2 of the sunscreen for 24 h and reported that the cumulative amounts of EHMC in the dermis and the RF were 1.7% AD and 1.2% AD in W/O, and O/W emulsions, respectively. Montenegro et al (2008) evaluated in vitro skin permeation of EHMC (5%) and BMDBM (1%) using a high dose of sunscreen (266 mg/cm 2 ) administrated to the human skin surface for 22 h. The cumulative amounts of EHMC and BMDBM absorbed from six different vehicles ranged from 0.06 to 0.38% AD and from 0.06 to 0.28% AD, respectively.…”

Effects of Lipids and Emulsifiers on the Physicochemical and Sensory Properties of Cosmetic Emulsions Containing Vitamin E

“…In addition, emulsifiers may play a significant role in determining the rheological characteristics of cosmetic emulsions and active ingredient skin permeation from these vehicles [19].…”

Percutaneous penetration and pharmacodynamics: Wash-in and wash-off of sunscreen and insect repellent

“…The popular ingredient, butlymethoxydibenzoyl methane (BMDM; Avobenzone), has good absorptive abilities of the long-wavelength UV-A. In vitro studies found dermal penetration of stratum corneum and epidermis of less than 1% (35)(36)(37). Chatelain et al (38) found no penetration of BMDM into the dermis.…”