Improvements in spectral wave modeling in tidal inlet seas

Westhuysen, A. J. Van der; Dongeren, Ap van; Groeneweg, J.; Vledder, G.P. Van; Peters, Herman; Gautier, Caroline; Nieuwkoop, J. C. C. van

doi:10.1029/2011jc007837

Cited by 25 publications

(28 citation statements)

References 41 publications

(75 reference statements)

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“…In shallow coastal areas, tidal effects may become critical in reproducing the conditions as currents, depth limitations and water levels lead to small scale variations in time and space of the wave field (Van der Westhuysen et al 2012;Ardhuin et al 2012). Especially in areas where waves are depth-limited any error in computational depth, i.e.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Source term balance in a severe storm in the Southern North Sea

Vledder

Hulst²,

McConochie

2016

Ocean Dynamics

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This paper presents the results of a wave hindcast of a severe storm in the Southern North Sea to verify recently developed deep and shallow water source terms. The work was carried out in the framework of the ONR funded NOPP project (Tolman et al. 2013) in which deep and shallow water source terms were developed for use in third-generation wave prediction models. These deep water source terms for whitecapping, wind input and nonlinear interactions were developed, implemented and tested primarily in the WAVEWATCH III model, whereas shallow water source terms for depth-limited wave breaking and triad interactions were developed, implemented and tested primarily in the SWAN wave model. So far, the new deepwater source terms for whitecapping were not fully tested in shallow environments. Similarly, the shallow water source terms were not yet tested in large inter-mediate depth areas Shell Global Solutions International B.V, Rijswijk, The Netherlands like the North Sea. As a first step in assessing the performance of these newly developed source terms, the source term balance and the effect of different physical settings on the prediction of wave heights and wave periods in the relatively shallow North Sea was analysed. The December 2013 storm was hindcast with a SWAN model implementation for the North Sea. Spectral wave boundary conditions were obtained from an Atlantic Ocean WAVEWATCH III model implementation and the model was driven by hourly CFSR wind fields. In the southern part of the North Sea, current and water level effects were included. The hindcast was performed with five different settings for whitecapping, viz. three Komen type whitecapping formulations, the saturation-based whitecapping by Van der Westhuysen et al. (2007) and the recently developed ST6 whitecapping as described by Zieger et al. (2015). Results of the wave hindcast were compared with buoy measurements at location K13 collected by the Dutch Ministry of Transport and Public Works. An analysis was made of the source term balance at three locations, the deep water location North Cormorant, the inter-mediate depth location K13 and at location Wielingen, a shallow water location close to the Dutch coast. The results indicate that at deep water the source terms for wind input, whitecapping and nonlinear four-wave interactions are of the same magnitude. At the inter-mediate depth location K13, bottom friction plays a significant role, whereas at the shallow water location Wielingen also depth-limited wave breaking becomes important.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Source term balance in a severe storm in the Southern North Sea

Vledder

Hulst²,

McConochie

2016

Ocean Dynamics

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“…This paper has an apparent connection to the topic of rogue waves mentioned above. Three other papers deal with wave‐current interactions, that is effectively with coupling the traditional wave modeling with models of other phenomena in the ocean Van der Westhuysen et al [2012] Roland et al [2012]…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Surface waves and wave‐coupled effects in lower atmosphere and upper ocean

Babanin

Onorato

2012

J. Geophys. Res.

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The article introduces the Special Issue of the Journal of Geophysical Research– Oceans which is based on the papers presented at or related to the new session of the General Assembly of the European Geosciences Union, first conducted in 2011. Topic of the session on the Surface Waves and Wave‐Coupled Effects highlights a new dimension of the present state of wind‐wave research. The surface waves is an important oceanographic topic in its own right, but it is also rapidly becoming clear that many large‐scale geophysical processes are essentially coupled with the surface waves, and those include climate, weather, tropical cyclones and other phenomena in the atmosphere and many issues of the upper‐ocean mixing below the interface.

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“…The computations presented here were performed using the SWAN model version 40.72ABCDE, in stationary third-generation mode. The physical settings are similar as those in Van der Westhuysen et al (2012). The grid size is 0.10 m. For details about the model set-up, see Groeneweg et al (2014).…”

Section: Laboratory Experimentsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Over the last couple of years significant improvements in the wave modeling with SWAN have been made (see e.g. Van der Westhuysen et al, 2012, Zijlema et al, 2012. One of the remaining issues is the underestimation by SWAN of the penetration of North Sea swell waves, in the range of 0.03 -0.20 Hz, under storm conditions.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

On the Modelling of Swell Wave Penetration Into Tidal Inlet Systems

Groeneweg

Nieuwkoop

Toledo

2014

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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For the calculations of the Hydraulic Boundary Conditions in the framework of the Dutch Legal Flood Safety Assessment (WTI), wave statistics obtained at deeper water buoys need to be transformed to the toe of the dike using the wave action model SWAN. This transformation is particularly challenging in complex tidal inlet systems such as the Wadden Sea and the Western Scheldt in the Netherlands. Although various model improvements have been made in SWAN, particularly in the propagation and bottom friction dissipation, one of the unresolved issues is that the penetration of North Sea swell waves into the tidal inlets is still underestimated by SWAN. The goal of this study is to verify the hypothesis that nonlinear interactions, in particular the sub-harmonic triad interactions, play a major role in the transmission of energy from flats into the channel, and that this process can explain SWAN's under-prediction of wave energy penetration. Since SWAN or any other wave-action equation type models lacks the relevant physics to study this problem, the Boussinesq-type TRITON model is used as well to verify the hypothesis. The conceptual idea, raised by Toledo (2013), is that sub-harmonic wave interactions between second harmonic and basic components generate a wave component of the same frequency as the primary component but at a wider angle of approach. As a consequence, the energy density spectra become directionally broader. From a series of idealized cases with monochromatic and bi-chromatic waves propagating up and down a slope we conclude that the TRITON model results confirm the conceptual idea of 2D nonlinear interactions. Both sub-harmonic wave interactions (to lower frequencies) and super-harmonic wave interactions (to higher frequencies) prove to be important. These insights can be applied to the situation with waves propagating on a tidal flat towards a channel. In case the basic components approach the channel under a sharp angle, such that they will not be able to enter the channel due to refraction, the sub-harmonic components could approach the channel under a less sharp angle and enter the channel. In our study a clear difference between the TRITON and SWAN energy density spectra in and across the channel is observed, as the 2D nonlinear interactions cannot be modeled with the co-linear 1D approach in SWAN. The hypothesis that nonlinear interactions play a major role in the transmission of energy from flats into the channel is confirmed, at least for the cases considered in this study. Additional investigations are still required in order to quantify and generalize the effect of nonlinear interactions on this transmission of energy. In addition, it is recommended to extend the presently implemented three-wave interaction formulation in SWAN to account for directional super-and subharmonic interactions.

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Improvements in spectral wave modeling in tidal inlet seas

Cited by 25 publications

References 41 publications

Source term balance in a severe storm in the Southern North Sea

Source term balance in a severe storm in the Southern North Sea

Surface waves and wave‐coupled effects in lower atmosphere and upper ocean

On the Modelling of Swell Wave Penetration Into Tidal Inlet Systems

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