Impact of different emollient esters on body emulsions: Sensory, physicochemical, and biometrological characterization

Abstract

A range of liquid emollient ester-loaded body emulsions were evaluated on the basis of sensory profile, consumer perception, physicochemical, biometrological, and rheological performances. This was complemented by skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) studies performed using a Corneometer ® and Tewameter ® , respectively. The rheological studies showed similar behavior of creams on variation of shear stress, frequency, and temperature. However, skin hydration performances of creams were found varied when compared between base cream and emollient ester-containing creams. In case of the TEWL study, base cream (F1, no ester) and octyl palmitate-containing cream (F2), exhibited the most protective behavior for the skin with minimal water loss. Sensory profiles of creams were obtained using the sensory descriptive analysis method. A study performed with human consumers (as subjects) using the difference of test attributes (directional) method showed the importance of sensory evaluation with consumers and proved to be an interesting analysis for comparison with the sensorial profile. In this case, the attributes with the highest intensity in the evaluated creams were, that is, spreadability, slipping, and dry touch. Stability studies of creams were performed for 90 days under different storage conditions. Stability studies showed octyl stearate-containing (F2) and palmitate-containing (F5) creams exhibited best stability under extended storage conditions. This research has demonstrated the importance of physicochemical characterization and sensory evaluations performed with consumers for more targeted analysis of cream-based formulations to differentiate product characteristics and identify attributes-led preferences. Practical applicationsResults from the present work suggest that emollients are directly responsible for sensory characteristics such as spreading, absorption, and touch on the skin; they can influence the viscosity and appearance of emulsions. After application on the skin, they regulate the moisture content of the epidermis together with the humectants. This research has demonstrated the importance of sensory evaluation, especially performed with consumers, which may be considered a more targeted analysis to differentiate product characteristics and help in the choice of emollient with the desired characteristics for the cosmetic product.

Physicochemical studies of novel sugar fatty acid esters based on (R)-3-hydroxylated acids derived from bacterial polyhydroxyalkanoates and their potential environmental impact

“…It became even more significant in recent years due to the fight against the COVID-19 pandemic–when the frequency of disinfection has become an inseparable part of everyone’s life ( Masen, 2020 ; Patruno et al, 2020 ; Dini and Laneri, 2021 ). Therefore, the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries are constantly working on perfect water-oil (W/O) systems that are less irritating to skin, are more stable in temperature and time, and are even capable of delivering bioactive compounds ( Fabbron-Appas et al, 2021 ). At the same time, the impact of these systems on the environment is not without significance.…”