I’m Skinny, I’m Worth More: Fashion Models’ Experiences of Aesthetic Labor and Its Impact on Body Image and Eating Behaviors

Abstract

The fashion industry has been critiqued for promoting ultra-thin bodies, yet the relationship between models’ aesthetic labor and eating disorder (ED) development is unclear. Using interpretive phenomenological analysis, we explored the lived experiences of nine female fashion models including metaphors they used to describe body perceptions and eating behaviors. Four superordinate themes emerged: Shaped for the industry; The body as a market product; Food restriction (“it’s almost glamorized”); Toward a healthier modelhood. Models’ career trajectories were those of lost childhoods, punitive body rules, inadequate dietary advice, and self-regulated food restriction. Models were “shaped” by agents from an early age to conform to the industry’s body rules irrespective of the physiological and psychological consequences. A “toxic” side to this aesthetic industry was depicted; agents were judged callous and money-focused, while idioms like, “feeling like a piece of meat” and “being a hanger of clothes” conveyed a deep sense of degradation and objectification. Ideas instilled at a formative age continued to influence self-image and eating patterns into maturity, pointing to an industrial element to the construction of eating disorders. Our study highlights how infantilization, sexism, and other unethical elements become normalized in poorly regulated industries such as fashion, with dire consequences for the health and wellbeing of employees. Model agencies should recognize the impact of occupational edicts and poor communication on young recruits in a sensitive phase of personality development. Finally, we advocate for more acknowledgment and further investigation into eating disorder construction commercial/industrial side.

Increased eating disorder frequency and body image disturbance among fashion models due to intense environmental pressure: a content analysis

“…Negative body perception was in relation with negative claims about eating, more frequent excessive calorie restriction, laxative abuse and body image disorder-like symptoms. Thus, the fashion industry has been criticized that it creates a ‘toxic’ environment being the foundation of increasing body image disorders and EDs ( 18 , 20 ). This statement could be accurate, as models’ higher self-reported BMI is significantly associated with poorer body appreciation and greater body dissatisfaction ( 30 ).…”

“…Uncertainty and the unpredictable nature of the modelling profession can play a factor in controlling one’s physical appearance, food consumption, or exercise habits ( 44 , 45 ). Each fashion season is unique, and models can be replaced at any moment ( 17 ) and the frequent rejection is described as “soul-destroying” and even traumatic ( 18 ). People with different personality types react differently to external pressure, and they develop different coping mechanism to bear those stressors ( 46 ), potentially resulting in maladaptive coping mechanisms such as the manifestation of EDs or the use of illicit drugs ( 26 ).…”

“…In a study, 63.1% of models reported that they would receive more job offers providing that they were slimmer ( 13 ). Weight loss remains a pivotal element and a major accomplishment in the fashion industry ( 18 ). Such criticism can highly influence body perception, self-esteem, and cause the feeling of shame which is correlated with disordered eating habits ( 19 ).…”

“…The difficulties of partaking in modelling extend beyond eating and body image disturbances. The presence of abusive or traumatic experience is not unusual ( 18 ). This might further enhance the risk for the development of EDs, as both traumatic events and the lack of psychosocial resources are associated with higher ED frequency ( 23 ).…”

“…There exists a significant gap in the literature in the assessment of subjective experiences influencing ED risk factors. To our knowledge, amongst all the research conducted about fashion models, only one study has previously applied qualitative evaluation, specifically interpretative phenomenological analysis ( 18 ). Our research aims to fill this gap, enriching the understanding of the sociocultural dynamics at play and providing a grounded perspective on the personal and professional challenges models face, and contributing to targeted interventions and policy recommendations within the industry.…”