“…This happens precisely because the HA frequencies turn away as they approach the shore (see again §3). The dynamic pressure can be determined from the HA potential with the expression p n (x, z, t) = −ρ 0 Φ nt (see Renzi & Dias 2014a), which yields p n (x, z, t) = p t n (x, z, t) + p p n (x, z, t). In the latter,…”