How the extraction method could be crucial in the characterization of natural dyes from dyed yarns and lake pigments: The case of American and Armenian cochineal dyes, extracted through the new ammonia-EDTA method

Serafini, Ilaria; Lombardi, Luca; Vannutelli, Gabriele; Montesano, Camilla; Sciubba, Fabio; Guiso, Marcella; Curini, Roberta; Bianco, Armandodoriano

doi:10.1016/j.microc.2017.06.005

Cited by 18 publications

(14 citation statements)

References 31 publications

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“…extraction procedures, which allow for a better recovery of easily degradable components and labile dye chromophores, involve use of EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) [42,[146][147][148], TFA (trifluoroacetic acid) [146,149,150], formic acid [10,146,151,152], oxalic acid [32,146], citric acid [41,146], DMSO [153] and glucose [41]. Resulting chromatograms of extracts from red/brown thread of the Dava Moor collection showed higher peaks for alizarin and purpurin for extraction with additional step (Fig.…”

Section: Sampling and Dye Extraction Protocolsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Mild extraction conditions in the first step allow isolation of glycosides and acid-sensitive anthraquinones, while the second step where the harsh conditions are applied leads to recovery of aglycones [141,151]. The identification of these sensitive and rarely-detected components could provide a complete view of the molecular pattern involved in dyeing processes, and thus could help in differentiating species of Rubiaceae and other anthraquinone sources [42,147].…”

Section: Sampling and Dye Extraction Protocolsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Postcolumn complexation of anthraquinone dyes with gallium ions has been used in their determination in extracts from Coptic textiles [134,174] and with zirconyl ions in extracts from th century tapestry from Aubusson (Table 5) [175]. ESI is the most important soft ionization technique in the analysis of anthraquinone dyes due to their polar nature [32,51,141,147,151,[177][178][179][180][181], though APCI has also been used in few reports [50,127,177]. In particular, ESI in an LC-tandem MS configuration that is widely used in detection and structural characterization of anthraquinone dyes from reference compounds, dyed samples and historical textiles [145,152,[178][179][180].…”

Section: Fluorescence Detectionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…These compounds formerly described as dcII and dcIII, were identified as 2-C-glucoside of flavokermesic acid and 4-aminocarminic acid, respectively, whereas dcIV and dcVII were α/β C-glucofuranosides of kermesic acid [50]. HPLC-MS analysis has also facilitated the detection and characterization of several never-before detected cochineal dye components in cochineal dyed textiles, especially O-glycosyl compounds [50,143,147,152]. Speciesspecific anthraquinone markers were also identified in madder extract and dyed textiles, offering the possibility to distinguish Rubia species used for dyeing [32,141].…”

Section: Mass Spectrometry Detectionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The identification of dyes sources in historical textiles becomes extremely complex when it The relative ratio of the HPLC peak areas of alizarin and purpurin is often used to identify the exact biological source of madder dyes [32,190,191]. Mouri Lech [145,152] and Serafini [147] offer more accurate information and are highly advisable for future research on cochineal dyes.…”

Section: Hplc Based Distinction Between Closely Related Insect and Plmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Analytical methods for determination of anthraquinone dyes in historical textiles: A review

Shahid

Wertz

Degano

et al. 2019

Analytica Chimica Acta

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Historical and archaeological textiles are among the most crucial and vulnerable records of our social and cultural history. Analysis of organic colorants found in these materials is unquestionably one of the most powerful tools to understand historical developments, cultural exchanges, and progress in science and technology. Natural anthraquinones represent the most commonly used natural colorants for textile dyeing until the late 19 th century. The identification of anthraquinones in cultural heritage objects is a challenging task due to the small size of historical samples, diversity of potential dye sources, variable extraction procedures and dyeing methods, complex chemical constitution, structurally analogous chromophores, and possible presence of degradation products and contaminants. Developments in dye analysis of historical interest have originated and expanded along with the general advances in analytical science. In the last few decades, a close cooperation between science and cultural heritage disciplines contributed enormously to this field. The topic of historical dyes and their analysis in textiles, artworks, archaeological objects and cultural heritage materials has been reviewed several times in the last fifteen years. However, no review has been published to-date exclusively on the analysis of anthraquinone colorants in historical and archaeological textiles. Overall, liquid chromatography (LC)-based techniques have been the most widely used method for anthraquinone dye analysis. Owing to increasing demand of minimally invasive/non-invasive techniques, recent developments of novel techniques have resulted in the availability of many alternative/complementary methods to LC-based analysis. This review begins with a short overview of sources, chemistry and importance of natural anthraquinone dyes found in historical textiles before turning to a detailed discussion on developments involving established and emerging analytical techniques of anthraquinone dye analysis for textile cultural heritage materials. To illustrate the state-of-the-art, representative examples of analytical techniques highlighting their advantages, limitations and applicability are also presented.

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Section: Sampling and Dye Extraction Protocolsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Sampling and Dye Extraction Protocolsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Fluorescence Detectionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Mass Spectrometry Detectionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Hplc Based Distinction Between Closely Related Insect and Plmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Analytical methods for determination of anthraquinone dyes in historical textiles: A review

Shahid

Wertz

Degano

et al. 2019

Analytica Chimica Acta

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New progress in the extraction and identification of Mexican cochineal (Dactylopius coccus) in fresh dyed wool and dyed wool with artificially accelerated aging and color description

Mojica

León-Santiago

García

et al. 2022

Color Research & Application

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The main purpose of this study was to determine if a method developed in the laboratory by HPLC‐ESI‐QToF was able to identify the characteristic compounds of the Mexican cochineal (Dactylopius coccus) in freshly dyed wool fiber and following an artificially accelerated aging process. Wool fibers were dyed with various formulations of popular interest (red‐orange, Mexican red, cochineal red, and purple). These formulations are currently used by indigenous communities in the south of Mexico. Some dyed wools were aged in an UV chamber, in order to simulate the deterioration that a fiber dyed in a previous time could have. Notable results were the identification of the main component, carminic acid, and the respective biomarkers of the Mexican cochineal (dcII, dcIV, and dcVII) with a small amount of sample and in a short time, in three of the four formulations before and after aging, thus providing a method that can probably be used for conservation purposes of cultural heritage. It was concluded that when alum is used as a mordant and as a carbonate pH fixer, the fixation of cochineal on the wool is not very strong. This is one of the few works where Mexican cochineal has been studied, simulating the deterioration due to the passage of time in wool samples of different colors with the same natural dye. As a way of describing the color more objectively, the color was measured with the CIE L*A*B* scale in the four formulations of interest, in recently dyed and artificially aged wool.

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Instrumental techniques in the analysis of natural red textile dyes

Peets

Vahur

Kruve

et al. 2020

Journal of Cultural Heritage

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How the extraction method could be crucial in the characterization of natural dyes from dyed yarns and lake pigments: The case of American and Armenian cochineal dyes, extracted through the new ammonia-EDTA method

Cited by 18 publications

References 31 publications

Analytical methods for determination of anthraquinone dyes in historical textiles: A review

Analytical methods for determination of anthraquinone dyes in historical textiles: A review

New progress in the extraction and identification of Mexican cochineal (Dactylopius coccus) in fresh dyed wool and dyed wool with artificially accelerated aging and color description

Instrumental techniques in the analysis of natural red textile dyes

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