How important is V̇O2max when climbing Mt. Everest (8,849 m)?

Burtscher, Martin; Viscor, Ginés

doi:10.1016/j.resp.2021.103833

Cited by 6 publications

(3 citation statements)

References 35 publications

(61 reference statements)

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“…Horiuchi and colleagues also showed that SpO 2 in females compared to males was more affected by exercising minute ventilation and energy expenditure [97]. Thus, a steeper fall in VO 2 peak with increasing altitude may be expected in women, which may become especially challenging when climbing in extreme altitudes [100]. However, previous studies have not assessed or considered the influence of pre/post menopause, hormonal fluctuations across the menstrual cycle and hormonal contraception; therefore, further studies are needed to conclusively determine the relationship between SpO 2 and VO 2 max at altitude in women.…”

Section: Effects Of Sexmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effects of Acute Exposure and Acclimatization to High-Altitude on Oxygen Saturation and Related Cardiorespiratory Fitness in Health and Disease

Furian

Tannheimer

Burtscher

2022

JCM

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Maximal values of aerobic power (VO2max) and peripheral oxygen saturation (SpO2max) decline in parallel with gain in altitude. Whereas this relationship has been well investigated when acutely exposed to high altitude, potential benefits of acclimatization on SpO2 and related VO2max in healthy and diseased individuals have been much less considered. Therefore, this narrative review was primarily aimed to identify relevant literature reporting altitude-dependent changes in determinants, in particular SpO2, of VO2max and effects of acclimatization in athletes, healthy non-athletes, and patients suffering from cardiovascular, respiratory and/or metabolic diseases. Moreover, focus was set on potential differences with regard to baseline exercise performance, age and sex. Main findings of this review emphasize the close association between individual SpO2 and VO2max, and demonstrate similar altitude effects (acute and during acclimatization) in healthy people and those suffering from cardiovascular and metabolic diseases. However, in patients with ventilatory constrains, i.e., chronic obstructive pulmonary disease, steep decline in SpO2 and V̇O2max and reduced potential to acclimatize stress the already low exercise performance. Finally, implications for prevention and therapy are briefly discussed.

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Section: Effects Of Sexmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effects of Acute Exposure and Acclimatization to High-Altitude on Oxygen Saturation and Related Cardiorespiratory Fitness in Health and Disease

Furian

Tannheimer

Burtscher

2022

JCM

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“…This is thought to be due to higher work of breathing and reduced diffusion capacity in women during maximal exercise in acute hypoxia compared with men [ 5 , 6 ], resulting in mechanical ventilatory constraint and/or an inadequate ventilatory drive. While some studies did not detect sex differences in the V O 2max decline with a gain in altitude [ 110 ], sufficient hyperventilation may actually be more limited in women than men because of a more pronounced ventilatory restriction [ 111 ]. This effect was indeed observed in women [ 112 , 113 ], with a significantly larger decrease in V O 2max in trained women than untrained women above 2500 m [ 113 , 114 ].…”

Section: Altitude/hypoxic Trainingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Recommendations for Women in Mountain Sports and Hypoxia Training/Conditioning

Burtscher,

Raberin,

Brocherie

et al. 2023

Sports Med

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The (patho-)physiological responses to hypoxia are highly heterogeneous between individuals. In this review, we focused on the roles of sex differences, which emerge as important factors in the regulation of the body’s reaction to hypoxia. Several aspects should be considered for future research on hypoxia-related sex differences, particularly altitude training and clinical applications of hypoxia, as these will affect the selection of the optimal dose regarding safety and efficiency. There are several implications, but there are no practical recommendations if/how women should behave differently from men to optimise the benefits or minimise the risks of these hypoxia-related practices. Here, we evaluate the scarce scientific evidence of distinct (patho)physiological responses and adaptations to high altitude/hypoxia, biomechanical/anatomical differences in uphill/downhill locomotion, which is highly relevant for exercising in mountainous environments, and potentially differential effects of altitude training in women. Based on these factors, we derive sex-specific recommendations for mountain sports and intermittent hypoxia conditioning: (1) Although higher vulnerabilities of women to acute mountain sickness have not been unambiguously shown, sex-dependent physiological reactions to hypoxia may contribute to an increased acute mountain sickness vulnerability in some women. Adequate acclimatisation, slow ascent speed and/or preventive medication (e.g. acetazolamide) are solutions. (2) Targeted training of the respiratory musculature could be a valuable preparation for altitude training in women. (3) Sex hormones influence hypoxia responses and hormonal-cycle and/or menstrual-cycle phases therefore may be factors in acclimatisation to altitude and efficiency of altitude training. As many of the recommendations or observations of the present work remain partly speculative, we join previous calls for further quality research on female athletes in sports to be extended to the field of altitude and hypoxia.

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“…An adequate basal aerobic capacity is needed in order to mitigate the effects of hypoxia regarding performance [ 11 ], as a reduction in the maximal oxygen consumption (

) of 1.5–3% for every 300 m of ascent is observed above 1500 m (although reductions have been observed from 580 m) [ 12 ], being a difference more marked with increasing altitude especially above 6300 m [ 13 ]. From this altitude level, the decline is even more rapid, probably linked to a reduced blood flow and the deterioration associated with chronic altitude exposure.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Nutrition and Hydration for High-Altitude Alpinism: A Narrative Review

Viscor

Corominas²,

Carceller

2023

IJERPH

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This report aims to summarise the scientific knowledge around hydration, nutrition, and metabolism at high altitudes and to transfer it into the practical context of extreme altitude alpinism, which, as far as we know, has never been considered before in the literature. Maintaining energy balance during alpine expeditions is difficult for several reasons and requires a deep understanding of human physiology and the biological basis for altitude acclimation. However, in these harsh conditions it is difficult to reconcile our current scientific knowledge in sports nutrition or even for mountaineering to high-altitude alpinism: extreme hypoxia, cold, and the logistical difficulties intrinsic to these kinds of expeditions are not considered in the current literature. Requirements for the different stages of an expedition vary dramatically with increasing altitude, so recommendations must differentiate whether the alpinist is at base camp, at high-altitude camps, or attempting the summit. This paper highlights nutritional recommendations regarding prioritising carbohydrates as a source of energy and trying to maintain a protein balance with a practical contextualisation in the extreme altitude environment in the different stages of an alpine expedition. More research is needed regarding specific macro and micronutrient requirements as well as the adequacy of nutritional supplementations at high altitudes.

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How important is V̇O2max when climbing Mt. Everest (8,849 m)?

Cited by 6 publications

References 35 publications

Effects of Acute Exposure and Acclimatization to High-Altitude on Oxygen Saturation and Related Cardiorespiratory Fitness in Health and Disease

Effects of Acute Exposure and Acclimatization to High-Altitude on Oxygen Saturation and Related Cardiorespiratory Fitness in Health and Disease

Recommendations for Women in Mountain Sports and Hypoxia Training/Conditioning

Nutrition and Hydration for High-Altitude Alpinism: A Narrative Review

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