How Does Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Alter the Skin Barrier Function in Man? A Multiparametric Approach

Abstract

The effects of topically applied sodium lauryl sulfate were studied in vivo, in man, through noninvasive methods and compared with those obtained in vitro, using human stratum corneum as a model. The results show that the very marked increase of transepidermal water loss obtained in vivo cannot be related to any removal of epidermal lipids. The most likely explanation of our findings lies in the hyperhydration of stratum corneum consecutive to the inflammation process and a possible disorganization of the lipid bilayers.

Assessment of the Potential Skin Irritation of Lysine-Derivative Anionic Surfactants Using Mouse Fibroblasts and Human Keratinocytes as An Alternative to Animal Testing

“…The lysine-derivative surfactants showed higher IC 50 s than SDS, one of the most widely used surfactants, which has been shown to damage barrier function by denaturation of the corneocytes and alteration intercellular lipids (19), whilst the commercial cationic surfactant HTAB was the most cytotoxic compound in all experiments, its IC 50 value being two hundred orders of magnitude lower than that of the other compounds tested. Although the nature of TEGO Betaine is not the same as that of the five anionic surfactants tested here, the results suggest that these compounds are as harmless as amphoteric betaines.…”

“…Both the NRU and MTT methods have been used as indirect measures of cell vialbility (19,20) The IC 50 values of the surfactants studied (Table 1) reveal that the lysine-derivative compounds are less cytotoxic, and thus predicted to be less irritant, than the commercial surfactants HTAB and SDS. The lysine-derivative surfactants showed higher IC 50 s than SDS, one of the most widely used surfactants, which has been shown to damage barrier function by denaturation of the corneocytes and alteration intercellular lipids (19), whilst the commercial cationic surfactant HTAB was the most cytotoxic compound in all experiments, its IC 50 value being two hundred orders of magnitude lower than that of the other compounds tested.…”

Mannosylerythritol Lipids: Production and Applications

“…5a , an essential component of the stratum corneum 42,43 , because both of the lipids consist of two fatty acids and sugar moieties, and are capable of forming various lyotropic liquid crystals, including the lamellar phase 5 . As previously reported, the moisturizing activity was evaluated using a three-dimensional cultured human skin model, TESTSKIN TM Toyobo, Japan based on the cell viability 44,45 .…”

A Yeast Glycolipid Biosurfactant, Mannosylerythritol Lipid, Shows Potential Moisturizing Activity toward Cultured Human Skin Cells: The Recovery Effect of MEL-A on the SDS-damaged Human Skin Cells

“…Oleo Sci. 58, (12) tant role in the water permeability properties of the skin, providing an epidermal water barrier which strengthens the skin structure and reduces water loss [1][2][3] . Regarding the mechanism for the recovery effect, we also speculate 1) the structure of MEL-A resembling ceramides would allow the skin cells to be penetrated easily into the intercellular spaces, and 2) the penetrated MEL-A would effectively provide the moisture retention in the cells due to the excellent formation of liquid crystals 7) .…”