Historical and archaeological textiles: An insight on degradation products of wool and silk yarns

Degano, Ilaria; Biesaga, Magdalena; Colombini, Maria Perla; Trojanowicz, Marek

doi:10.1016/j.chroma.2011.06.095

Cited by 74 publications

(67 citation statements)

References 45 publications

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“…Although no significant photo-degradation had been previously observed in aged cochineal-dyed fibres [49], here UHPLC-PDA results have generally shown lower amounts of chromophore compounds in relation to the non-aged ones. Absolute amounts of colorant registered with UHPLC-PDA before and after ageing are given in Table 2.…”

Section: Artificially-aged Samplesmentioning

confidence: 52%

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Investigation of crimson-dyed fibres for a new approach on the characterization of cochineal and kermes dyes in historical textiles

Serrano

Doel

Bommel

et al. 2015

Analytica Chimica Acta

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The colorant behaviour of cochineal and kermes insect dyes in 141 experimentally-dyed and 28 artificially-aged samples of silk and wool was investigated using ultra-high performance liquid chromatography coupled to photodiode array detector (UHPLC-PDA), liquid chromatography electrospray ionisation mass spectrometry (LC-ESI-MS) and image scanning electron microscopy - energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX). Partial-least squares discriminant analysis (PLS-DA) was then used to model the acquired UHPLC-PDA data and assess the possibility of discriminating cochineal insect species, as well as their correspondent dyed and aged reference fibres. The resulting models helped to characterize a set of 117 red samples from 95 historical textiles, in which UHPLC-PDA analyses have reported the presence of cochineal and kermes insect dyes. Analytical investigation of the experimentally-dyed and artificially-aged fibres has demonstrated that the ratio of compounds in the insects dye composition can change, depending on the dyeing conditions applied and the type of fibres used. Similarities were observed when comparing the UHPLC-MS and SEM-EDX results from the dyed and aged references with the historical samples. This was verified with PLS-DA models of the chromatographic data, facilitating the classification of the cochineal species present in the historical samples. The majority of these samples were identified to contain American cochineal, which is in agreement with historical and dye identification literature that describe the impact of this dyestuff into European and Asian dyeing practices, after the Iberian Expansion in the 16th century. The analytical results emphasize the importance of using statistical data interpretation for the discrimination of cochineal dyes, besides qualitative and quantitative evaluation of chromatograms. Hence, the combination of UHPLC-PDA with a statistical classification method, such as PLS-DA, has been demonstrated to be an advisable approach in future investigations to assess closely related species of natural dyes in historical textile samples. This is particularly important when aiming to achieve more accurate interpretations about the history of works of art, or the application of natural dyes in old textile production.

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Section: Artificially-aged Samplesmentioning

confidence: 52%

“…By absorbing UV radiation, they are reduced into new groups, such as aspartic, glutamic and cysteine acids in wool. These new groups are responsible for the yellow shade exhibited by fibres [48][49][50]61], especially those prepared with tannic acid.…”

Section: Artificially-aged Samplesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Investigation of crimson-dyed fibres for a new approach on the characterization of cochineal and kermes dyes in historical textiles

Serrano

Doel

Bommel

et al. 2015

Analytica Chimica Acta

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“…LC and HPLC have been used to identify caffeine and theobromine from chocolate residues (117-120), organic colourants on fabrics (121)(122)(123)(124)(125)(126) and in Cretan icons (127), and used to examine the degradation of dyed and natural wool and silk fibres by measuring the concentrations of their degradation products (128). It is the method of choice for examining organic colourants which are often not suitable for GC-MS analysis.…”

Section: New Chromatographic Techniquesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Organic Residues in Archaeology: The Highs and Lows of Recent Research

Steele

2013

ACS Symposium Series

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The analysis of organic residues from archaeological materials has become increasingly important to our understanding of ancient diet, trade and technology. Residues from diverse contexts have been retrieved and analysed from the remains of food, medicine and cosmetics to hafting material on stone arrowheads, pitch and tar from shipwrecks, and ancient manure from soils. Research has brought many advances in our understanding of archaeological, organic residues over the past two decades. Some have enabled very specific and detailed interpretations of materials preserved in the archaeological record. However there are still areas where we know very little, like the mechanisms at work during the formation and preservation of residues, and areas where each advance produces more questions rather than answers, as in the identification of degraded fats. This chapter will discuss some of the significant achievements in the field over the past decade and the ongoing challenges for research in this area.1341280_File000001_20903114.docPrinted 7/19/2013 2

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“…En sus investigaciones marca las variaciones obtenidas en los espectros de absorbancia y los estudios cromatográficos pero no identifica la presencia de nuevos compuestos ni el proceso químico de la degradación de alizarín y purpurín como ha ocurrido en este caso. I. Degano et col. [13] presentan una lista de productos secundarios encontrados en muestras históricas de textil envejecidas de manera natural que podrían ser atribuidas al deterioro del rojo de Rubia y a su combinación con otros productos presentes. Esta hipótesis no la confirma, ya que remarca la contraposición entre los resultados obtenidos por C. Clementi, quien no identifican ningún producto de degradación, y los ensayos realizados por Ahn y Obendorf [17], que indica la posible presencia de ácido ftálico, anhidro ftálico y ácido benzoico como posibles productos de degradación.…”

Section: A Rojo De Rubiaunclassified

“…En la última década aparecen los primeros estudios sobre la influencia de los factores ambientales en colorantes naturales [9], estudios relativos al envejecimiento acelerado de colorantes usados en documentos gráficos [10,11], donde se describen las variaciones tonales producidas, envejecimiento de sustancias rojas empleadas como tintes en textiles [12,13], degradación de los carotenoides del azafrán [14], y alteraciones de la molécula de índigo, independientemente de su aplicación [15].…”

Section: Introductionunclassified

Identification of colorant materials after an artificially aged process

López-Montes¹,

Dupont²,

Burgos³

et al. 2016

Opt. Pura Apl.

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ABSTRACT:Chemical composition and physical characteristics of art materials (support, paint layer, protection layer…) depend on different factors such as their origin, the application process, the storage conditions throughout the centuries and the ageing processes. The identification of aged organic dyes can be difficult due to the possible changes that their physical and chemical characteristics could have undergone with time. A comparative study between standard samples and samples aged in a controlled climate chamber under drastic conditions of humidity, temperature and light was carried out. The techniques of identification and evaluation used were High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) and UV-visible spectroscopy. Results showed that the cellulosic fibers confer greater resistance to dyes in all cases.Key words: Colour in art, identification, natural dyes, artificial aged process, conservation. RESUMEN:La composición química y las características físicas de los materiales artísticos (soporte, capa pictórica, capa de protección…) dependen de diferentes factores tales como la fuente de origen, el procedimiento utilizado para su aplicación, las condiciones de almacenamiento a través del tiempo y el proceso de envejecimiento. Se destaca, en este punto, la problemática de la identificación de los colorantes orgánicos después de su envejecimiento, ya que, en muchos casos, pueden haberse modificado sus características físicas o químicas. Para la identificación de los colorantes bajo estas condiciones se realizó un estudio comparativo entre las muestras patrón sin envejecer y las muestras artificialmente envejecidas en una cámara climática, sometiéndolas a condiciones drásticas de humedad, temperatura e iluminación. Las técnicas que se emplearon para identificar y evaluar los cambios sufridos por estos colorantes fueron la cromatografía líquida de alta resolución (HPLC) y la espectroscopía UV-visible. Los resultados demostraron que las fibras celulósicas confieren mayor resistencia a los colorantes en todos los casos.Palabras clave: Color en arte, identificación, colorantes naturales, proceso de envejecimiento artificial, conservación.

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Historical and archaeological textiles: An insight on degradation products of wool and silk yarns

Cited by 74 publications

References 45 publications

Investigation of crimson-dyed fibres for a new approach on the characterization of cochineal and kermes dyes in historical textiles

Investigation of crimson-dyed fibres for a new approach on the characterization of cochineal and kermes dyes in historical textiles

Organic Residues in Archaeology: The Highs and Lows of Recent Research

Identification of colorant materials after an artificially aged process

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