Highcastle

Lem, Stanisław

doi:10.7551/mitpress/13173.001.0001

Cited by 2 publications

(4 citation statements)

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“…that recalls tuberose and gardenia. It is now known by its commercial name Aprifloren (111) [125] and sustainably produced by radical cyclization of methyl crotonate (221) and heptanol (220) as delineated in Scheme 27. It has been used at 0.2 % in "212 VIP Men" (Carolina Herrera, 2011) by Emilie Coppermann with Dave Apel, Lucas Sieuzac, and Carlos Vinals, together with 0.4 % of Ambrocenide (236 vide supra).…”

Section: Tipsy and Sweet: Like Tonka On Tiramisumentioning

confidence: 99%

“…As depicted in Scheme 27, the renewable heptanol (220) stems from methyl ricinolate (218), which is available ex castor oil produced by cold expression of castor beans (Ricinus communis L.). Pyrolysis at 550 °C in the Oleris process provides methyl undecylenate (UAME, 219) and heptanal (53), the latter which is reduced to heptanol (220). Reaction of this renewable heptanol (220) with methyl crotonate provides in comparison to Aprifloren (111) the unsubstituted γ-decalactone known for its intense creamy-fruity peach odor also as 'Pêche Pure'.…”

Section: Tipsy and Sweet: Like Tonka On Tiramisumentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Pyrolysis at 550 °C in the Oleris process provides methyl undecylenate (UAME, 219) and heptanal (53), the latter which is reduced to heptanol (220). Reaction of this renewable heptanol (220) with methyl crotonate provides in comparison to Aprifloren (111) the unsubstituted γ-decalactone known for its intense creamy-fruity peach odor also as 'Pêche Pure'. Thus, the important fragrant mainstays of the florientals are available sustainably already.…”

Section: Tipsy and Sweet: Like Tonka On Tiramisumentioning

confidence: 99%

“…[219] While the ether oxygen lowers the threshold, it also makes the compound 235 more polar and thus more bioavailable; however, this methoxysubstituted Ambrocenide (238) is also not biodegradable. The nor-analogue 239, a cyclic ortho ester, patented in 2020 by researchers of Firmenich [220] is however readily biodegradable (82 %, 28 d) and 83 % renewable, smelling dry woody with ambery tonality; yet, it is too instable to be of any use in perfumery, as the ortho ester moiety decomposes already in fine fragrance applications, even without the action of bacteria or enzymes.…”

Section: Dry Ambers From Cedarwoodmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 3 more Smart Citations

Sniffing Out the Sustainable Future: The Renewability Revolution in Fragrance Chemistry**

Elterlein,

Bugdahn,

Kraft

2024

Chemistry A European J

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In this review, the impact of the transition from today’s petrochemical economy towards a 100/100 renewable and biodegradable future is discussed: “citrus”, “green”, “fruity”, “floral”, “floriental”, “oriental”, “woody”, “chypre” and “fougère”. After benchmark data on ingredients usage, definitions on biodegradation and sustainability are given. Celebrating the 150th anniversary of svanillin, its historic synthesis from renewable starting materials serves as introduction. Citrus scents upcycled from the beverages industry are already an ideal case for 100/100 with new opportunities for artificial essential oils. In the fruity domain, transparent and lactonic ingredients are available in a sustainable manner. In the domain of green odorants, there is a lack of green chemistry for important key materials. In the floral family, renewability is more critical than biodegradability, but cost is an issue. Thanks to Ambrox and maltol, florientals and orientals will persist, while woody notes severely lack an Iso E Super replacer. In the chypre genre, patchouli became the new moss, but more musks are increasingly in demand. With their high percentage of linalool and dihydromyrcenol, the construction of fougères could well become a precedent for other families, despite challenges in vetiver and salicylates. Still, the challenges exemplified create immense opportunities for new perfumery materials

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Section: Tipsy and Sweet: Like Tonka On Tiramisumentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Tipsy and Sweet: Like Tonka On Tiramisumentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Tipsy and Sweet: Like Tonka On Tiramisumentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Dry Ambers From Cedarwoodmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

Sniffing Out the Sustainable Future: The Renewability Revolution in Fragrance Chemistry**

Elterlein,

Bugdahn,

Kraft

2024

Chemistry A European J

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Decoding the Images of the Polish Countryside, by Louise Arner Boyd (1887-1972)

Buriak,

Kudela-Świątek

2023

kresy

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This article looks at the photographic legacy of Louise Arner Boyd’s (1887-1972) expedition through the Second Polish Republic in the context of her discovery of the otherness and social diversity of the country she visited in 1934. The authors were particularly captivated by the portrayal of the Ruthenians/Ukrainians of what is now Western Ukraine, as depicted in the Boyd photography. The authors focus lies on the unprocessed photographic content from the library collections of the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee and the book she published a few years after her journey with the cooperation of the American Geographical Society in New York. The authors told the story of Louise A. Boyd’s trip to Poland primarily to introduce the reader to the context of the creation of the photographic collection, in which authors try to discover content and meanings that have not been sought before. Their analysis of the making-off process and reception into academia for Boyd’s book entitled Polish Countryside is also crucial to understanding that it is only a part of the collection. It is a specific vision and a compromise between the photographer’s and the publisher’s expectations. The Boyd photographic collection focused on rural landscapes and the architecture of villages and farms, capturing various farming methods, road and water transport scenes, village types and traditional clothing. With meticulous descriptions and detailed lists of the photographed locations and subjects, the collection serves as valuable documentation of building styles and techniques, traditional costumes, transportation, markets and agricultural and fishing practices. Thanks to Boyd’s skilled photographer’s eye, she was able to capture visually attractive photographs that also serve as scientifically intriguing documents of a bygone era. The significance of these photos extends beyond the confines of ethnography, as we have endeavoured to emphasise in this article. Through reinterpreting Ruthenians/ Ukrainians portraits in Boyd photographs after almost a century, we aim to grasp the preserved and concealed contexts, thereby reconstructing, if not the complete image, at least its distinct components. However, the images of contemporary Western Ukraine and its inhabitants by Louise Arner Boyd that the authors analysed are currently in the photography collection mentioned above from the UWM as part of the digitalised archive of the American Geographical Society. The authors had attempted to look at them both as an example of ethnographic photography typical of the interwar period and a unique image of a world that no longer exists. In the authors’ opinion, Louise A. Boyd’s photograms, placed as raw ethnographic material in the mentioned repository of the UWM library, today have the value that she wanted to give them from the beginning when she was considering the publication of Polish Countrysides, and they are a reminder of a world whose traces have almost disappeared today.

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Highcastle

Cited by 2 publications

References 0 publications

Sniffing Out the Sustainable Future: The Renewability Revolution in Fragrance Chemistry**

Sniffing Out the Sustainable Future: The Renewability Revolution in Fragrance Chemistry**

Decoding the Images of the Polish Countryside, by Louise Arner Boyd (1887-1972)

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