Heart Rate Response, Duration, Grip Strength, and Anthropometric Characteristics in Recreational Indoor Rock Climbers

Smetanka, Robert G.; Armenta, Richard F.; Nessler, Jeff A.; Newcomer, Sean C.

doi:10.1519/jsc.0000000000003540

Cited by 2 publications

(1 citation statement)

References 14 publications

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“…Sex differences have been shown for similar measures in comparable athletic populations except lumbar mobility which has only been assessed in the general population. [23][24][25][26] Differences are likely due to physical sex differences, including the center of gravity location, combined with gender asymmetry in circus training, where boys and men tend to be encouraged toward strength and dynamic skills versus girls and women toward grace and flexibility. 27 Women aerial artists in social circus have reported concerns about gaining strength and looking too masculine.…”

Section: Sex-related Differencesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Preparation For Flight: The Physical Profile of Pre-Professional and Professional Circus Artists in the United States

Greenspan,

Stuckey

2024

International Journal of Sports Physical Therapy

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Background Established norms for fitness and performance measures are lacking in circus arts. These would assist healthcare professionals and coaches to screen for readiness to participate in training or performance, determine post-injury return to performance, and develop targeted conditioning programs. Purpose The purpose of this research was to establish norms for trunk and extremity physical exam and performance measures in circus artists by professional status, assigned sex at birth (ASAB), and age. Study Design Descriptive laboratory study Methods Circus artists (n=201; ages 13-69y; 172 females ASAB, 29 males ASAB) from 10 cities across the United States underwent a baseline physical examination including shoulder, hip and trunk measures of passive (PROM) and active (AROM) range of motion, measures of flexibility (shoulder and hip), strength (manual muscle tests, grip strength), cardiovascular fitness (3 minute-step test), balance (single limb and handstand), and performance, (pull-ups, and the closed kinetic chain upper extremity stability test [CKCUEST]). ANOVAs were used to determine between group differences by age and T-tests to discern differences by ASAB or professional status. Results Differences existed by professional status for shoulder external rotation PROM, hip PROM, hip flexibility, shoulder and abdominal strength, and cardiovascular fitness. Sex differences were seen in active scapular upward rotation, hip and shoulder PROM and flexibility, hip and grip strength, and for functional performance measures (pull-ups, CKCUEST). Differences by age were limited to active scapular upward rotation, shoulder PROM, flexibility and strength, cardiovascular fitness, and balance. Overall, professionals outperformed pre-professionals for lower abdominal strength, pull-ups, handstand balance, cardiovascular fitness, hamstring, and straddle flexibility. Generally, males ASAB demonstrated greater shoulder flexibility and upper body functional strength while females ASAB had greater hip and lumbar flexibility and hip strength. No measures showed consistent declines with increasing age, though some showed differences between adolescents and adults. Conclusion These normative values for physical characteristics and functional performance in pre-professional and professional circus artists may be used to guide screening for readiness to participate in advanced training or performance, return to performance after injury, and the development of targeted strength and conditioning programs. Level of Evidence 3

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Section: Sex-related Differencesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Preparation For Flight: The Physical Profile of Pre-Professional and Professional Circus Artists in the United States

Greenspan,

Stuckey

2024

International Journal of Sports Physical Therapy

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Physical performance testing in climbing—A systematic review

Langer

Simon

Wiemeyer

2023

Front. Sports Act. Living

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Due to the increasing popularity of climbing, the corresponding diagnostics are gaining in importance for both science and practice. This review aims to give an overview of the quality of different diagnostic testing- and measurement methods for performance, strength, endurance, and flexibility in climbing. A systematic literature search for studies including quantitative methods and tests for measuring different forms of strength, endurance, flexibility, or performance in climbing and bouldering was conducted on PubMed and SPORT Discus. Studies and abstracts were included if they a) worked with a representative sample of human boulderers and/or climbers, b) included detailed information on at least one test, and c) were randomized-controlled-, cohort-, cross-over-, intervention-, or case studies. 156 studies were included into the review. Data regarding subject characteristics, as well as the implementation and quality of all relevant tests were extracted from the studies. Tests with similar exercises were grouped and the information on a) measured value, b) unit, c) subject characteristics (sex and ability level), and d) quality criteria (objectivity, reliability, validity) were bundled and displayed in standardized tables. In total, 63 different tests were identified, of which some comprised different ways of implementation. This clearly shows that there are no uniform or standard procedures in climbing diagnostics, for tests on strength, endurance or flexibility. Furthermore, only few studies report data on test quality and detailed information on sample characteristics. This not only makes it difficult to compare test results, but at the same time makes it impossible to give precise test recommendations. Nevertheless, this overview of the current state of research contributes to the creation of more uniform test batteries in the future.

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Heart Rate Response, Duration, Grip Strength, and Anthropometric Characteristics in Recreational Indoor Rock Climbers

Cited by 2 publications

References 14 publications

Preparation For Flight: The Physical Profile of Pre-Professional and Professional Circus Artists in the United States

Preparation For Flight: The Physical Profile of Pre-Professional and Professional Circus Artists in the United States

Physical performance testing in climbing—A systematic review

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