Abstract:This study juxtaposes the observations and interpretations of a twenty-first-century ethnographer with those of nineteenth-century Christian missionaries to rethink interpretations of the practice of gender in precolonial West Africa. The article uses the evolving relationship between an ethnographic researcher and a group of contemporary female ancestral masquerade chiefs to reflect on the ways in which generations of missionaries and scholars have interpreted the gendered construction of power. It critiques previous writers for assuming sex and gender in Yoruba culture to be fixed, and argues for a more fluid interpretation of the gendered identities of the observer and subject being observed.