Gravity and Shear Wave Contributions to Nearshore Infragravity Motions

Lippmann, Thomas; Herbers, T. H. C.; Thornton, Edward B.

doi:10.1175/1520-0485(1999)029<0231:gaswct>2.0.co;2

Cited by 58 publications

(65 citation statements)

References 22 publications

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“…2g) when much of the anomalous spreading occurred (Fig. 2f), indicating a dominance of shear wave over gravity wave energy (Lippmann et al 1999). Thus, shear waves appear responsible for most of the observed broadening.…”

Section: Comparisonmentioning

confidence: 87%

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Refraction of Surface Gravity Waves by Shear Waves

Henderson

Guza

Elgar

et al. 2006

Journal of Physical Oceanography

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Previous field observations indicate that the directional spread of swell-frequency (nominally 0.1 Hz) surface gravity waves increases during shoreward propagation across the surf zone. This directional broadening contrasts with the narrowing observed seaward of the surf zone and predicted by Snell's law for bathymetric refraction. Field-observed broadening was predicted by a new model for refraction of swell by lower-frequency (nominally 0.01 Hz) current and elevation fluctuations. The observations and the model suggest that refraction by the cross-shore currents of energetic shear waves contributed substantially to the observed broadening.

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Section: Comparisonmentioning

confidence: 87%

“…In high-energy conditions the kinetic energy of these motions (h͗u 2 ϩ 2 ͘/2) exceeded the potential energy (g͗ 2 ͘/2, where is sea surface displacement) by one to two orders of magnitude (Fig. 2g, note the log scale), indicating that these motions were dominated by shear waves rather than gravity waves (Lippmann et al 1999). …”

Section: ͑6͒mentioning

confidence: 98%

Refraction of Surface Gravity Waves by Shear Waves

Henderson

Guza

Elgar

et al. 2006

Journal of Physical Oceanography

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“…After removing the mean and applying a Hamming window, the segments were Fourier transformed and (ensemble averaged) cross-spectra with a bandwidth Dv/2p of 0.0078 Hz were computed for the frequency range v/2p 5 0.04-0.19 Hz that contains the dominant swell energy. The lowfrequency limit was chosen to exclude infragravity motions that contain second-order nonlinear bound wave contributions (e.g., Herbers et al 1994) and possibly other (nongravity wave) fluid motions (e.g., Lippmann et al 1999) that do not obey the linear theory transfer function, Eq. (5).…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Comparing estimates of E(v) based on (9) with the independent pressure-based estimates provides a useful check of the overall quality of the velocity measurements that may identify excessive instrument noise levels or contamination with nongravity wave flow contributions (e.g., Lippmann et al 1999;Hoitink et al 2007). …”

Section: The Frequency Spectrummentioning

confidence: 99%

Observing Directional Properties of Ocean Swell with an Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP)

Herbers

Lentz

2010

Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology

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Acoustic Doppler current profilers (ADCPs) are widely used for routine measurements of ocean currents and waves in coastal environments. These instruments have the basic capability to measure surface wave frequency-directional spectra, but the quality of the estimates is not well understood because of the relatively high noise levels in the velocity measurements. In this study, wave data are evaluated from two 600-kHz ADCP instruments deployed at 20-and 45-m depths on the Southern California continental shelf. A simple parametric estimation technique is presented that provides robust estimates of the gross directional wave properties, even when the data quality is marginal, as was often the case in this benign wave environment. Good agreement of mean direction and (to a lesser degree) directional spreading estimates with measurements from a nearby surface-following buoy confirms that reliable wave information can generally be extracted from ADCP measurements on the continental shelf, supporting the instrument's suitability for routine wave-monitoring applications.

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“…and Holman, 1989]. These processes were neglected here, because the tidal modulation was observed far offshore of the trapping region, and the records (20% of the total) for which shear instabilities contributed more than 30% of the total infragravity velocity variance [Lippmann et al, 1999] were excluded.…”

Section: Field Observationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Infragravity waves over topography : generation, dissipation, and reflection

Thomson¹

2006

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Gravity and Shear Wave Contributions to Nearshore Infragravity Motions

Cited by 58 publications

References 22 publications

Refraction of Surface Gravity Waves by Shear Waves

Refraction of Surface Gravity Waves by Shear Waves

Observing Directional Properties of Ocean Swell with an Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP)

Infragravity waves over topography : generation, dissipation, and reflection

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