Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes

Abstract

Food waste is a global problem due to its environmental and economic impact, so there is great demand for the exploitation of new functional applications. The winemaking process leads to an incomplete extraction of high-value compounds, leaving the pomace still rich in polyphenols. This study was aimed at optimising and validating sustainable routes toward the extraction and further valorisation of these polyphenols, particularly for cosmeceutical applications. New formulations based on red grape pomace polyphenols and natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) were here investigated, namely betaine combined with citric acid (BET-CA), urea (BET-U) and ethylene glycol (BET-EG), in which DESs were used both as extracting and carrying agents for polyphenols. The flavonoid profile determined by HPLC-MS/MS analysis showed similar malvidin content (51–56 μg mL−1) in the DES combinations, while BET-CA gave the best permeation performance in Franz cells, so it was further investigated in 3D human keratinocytes (HaCat spheroids) injured with the pro-oxidant agent menadione. BET-CA treatment showed good intracellular antioxidant activity (IC50 0.15 ± 0.02 μg mL−1 in malvidin content) and significantly decreased (p < 0.001) the release of the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-8, improving cell viability. Thus, BET-CA formulation is worthy of investigation for potential use as a cosmetic ingredient to reduce oxidative stress and inflammation, which are causes of skin aging.

Fermentation of Vaccinium floribundum Berries with Lactiplantibacillus plantarum Reduces Oxidative Stress in Endothelial Cells and Modulates Macrophages Function

“…As described for other berries, FP gained the ability to interfere with H 2 O 2 production following menadione treatment [63]. Furthermore, consistent with previous studies on fermented berries [64], FP berries treatment increased HUVECs viability in the presence of H 2 O 2 , confirming that fermentation interferes with oxidative stress-induced cell damages.…”

Food Industry Byproducts as Starting Material for Innovative, Green Feed Formulation: A Sustainable Alternative for Poultry Feeding

“…Although simple hydroalcoholic extraction methods (which themselves can be categorized as green) are the most commonly used for the extraction of polyphenols and other bioactive compounds [ 73 , 74 , 75 , 76 , 77 , 78 , 79 , 80 , 81 , 82 ], the past decade has seen remarkable developments in the optimization of these methods (e.g., through the use of microwaves, pressurized solvents or ultrasounds) [ 83 , 84 , 85 , 86 , 87 , 88 , 89 , 90 , 91 , 92 , 93 ]. Moreover, completely new solvents, such as Deep Eutectic Solvents (DESs), have been introduced into this field, providing several promising advantages over classical green extraction procedures [ 94 , 95 , 96 , 97 , 98 , 99 , 100 ].…”

“…It must be highlighted that while alcohols, such as ethanol and methanol, can be considered green solvents due to the low environmental impact of their disposal [ 102 ], their toxicity to animals means that their use in feed and food supplement requires their complete removal, which can be an energy-intensive procedure. Thus, research has also focused on developing new, non-thermal extraction methods allowing the use of water as only solvent or of non-toxic solvents such as DESs [ 94 , 95 , 96 , 97 , 98 , 99 , 100 , 103 , 104 ].…”

“…Glycerol and tartaric acid are also very common components of DESs, in which they act as hydrogen bond donors. DESs are an innovative solution to the energetic shortcomings of classical solvents and several studies have proven their excellent capacity for extracting a variety of bioactive substances from grape pomace [ 94 , 95 , 96 , 97 , 98 , 99 , 100 ]. When using these novel solvents, the first step is to determine the optimal combination of DESs components and the ratio between them.…”

“…Several other NADESs, based on Bet as HBA and with urea, Cit and EG as HBDs, were also used to extract polyphenols from grape pomace [ 98 ]. The contents of each extract were analyzed for the presence of anthocyanins by HPLC-MS/MS.…”