THE DISCOVERY AND REDISCOVERY of how to make a fermented beverage from a natural or derived source of simple sugars has occurred in many places and at many times. Before the modern period, only the Eskimos, the peoples of Tierra del Fuego at the southern tip of South America, and the Australian aborigines apparently lived out their lives without the medical benefits and mind-altering effects of alcohol, the principal drug in any fermented beverage. While polar regions lacked good resources for monosaccharides, honey and sugar-rich fruits and other plants are plentiful in temperate parts of the globe and the tropics. In the New World, maize (Zea mays) and the juice of the century plant (Agave americana) and the saguaro cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) were sweet enough to ferment directly into chicha, pulque, and cactus wine, respectively. Increasingly, archaeological, ethnographic, and textual evidence from around the world points to fermented beverages, especially in the context of feasting activities, as integral to cultures at many different levels: social, religious, economic, and political. Although the goals and behaviors of participants and the scale of feasting and drinking varied (Bray 2003; Dietler and Hayden 2001;Hayden 1995;Potter 2000), feasts everywhere involved favorite foods and, almost invariably, fermented beverages. Feasts marked critical events in the lives of communities and individuals, and often entailed public rituals (Pauketat et al. 2002). Late pre-Hispanic Peru (Hastorf and Johannessen 1993; Moore 1989) exemplifies Patrick E. McGovern is senior research scientist and adjunct associate professor at the University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia. Gretchen R. Hall is a research assistant and Chen-shan Wang is a graduate student at the University of Pennsylvania Museum's Applied Science Center for Archaeology, Philadelphia. Anne P. Underhill is associate curator and Gary M. Feinman is curator and chair in the Anthropology Department at the Field Museum, Chicago. Hui Fang, Fengshi Luan, Haiguang Yu, and Fengshu Cai are professors in the Department of Archaeology, Shandong University, China. Zhijun Zhao is a researcher at the Institute of Archaeology, Beijing, China. ASIAN PERSPECTIVES • 44(2) • FALL 2005 how great the demand for fermented beverages has been in the Americas, comparable to what is attested in the Old World (e.g., Iron Age Europe [Dietler 1990] and from the Neolithic period through historical times in the Near East and the Mediterranean region [Joffee 1998;McGovern et al. 1997; McGovern 2000McGovern , 2003).The demand for fermented beverages often led to social change. In Peru, this perceived need probably contributed to an intensification of maize production (Hastorf and Johannassen 1993). In Iron Age Europe, exchange systems were hard pressed to satisfy the craving of political elites for Italian wine (Dietler 1990). In the Middle East, the prestige exchange of wine and special winedrinking ceremonies have been proposed as the motive in the spread of a Neolithic wine culture, w...