Fragrance raw materials and essential oils can reduce prostaglandin E₂ formation in keratinocytes and reconstituted human epidermis

Abstract

Essential oils and certain perfumery raw materials exhibit a wide range of beneficial biological activities. Besides the antimicrobial and antioxidant activity, the anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant effects are most often cited. One specific mode of action is the reduction of the formation of the key mediator prostaglandin E(2) (PGE(2)). To study this activity in detail and to create cosmetically useful fragrances with the potential to reduce a key marker of skin irritancy in keratinocytes, an initial screening with pig blood platelets was conducted on 900 perfumery raw materials. Active compounds were then validated in a human keratinocyte cell line. Compounds which successfully reduced PGE(2) formation in this assay were used for the creation of active fragrances. These final fragrances reduced PGE(2) formation by >80% when dosed at 0.8 mug mL(-1) to keratinocytes. Application of such a fragrance in a hydrogel allowed reduction of UVB-induced PGE(2) formation in reconstituted epidermis (MatTec EpiDerm(TM)). Similarly, antiperspirant-induced formation of PGE(2) in reconstituted epidermis was reduced to background levels if these novel fragrances were used in the antiperspirant formulation. In conclusion, fragrances with this added cosmetic benefit can be created based on a database from a comprehensive screening. These fragrances may find use as a part of a formulation strategy optimizing each part of a cosmetic formulation for optimal product mildness.

Xenobiotic metabolism capacities of human skin in comparison with a 3D epidermis model and keratinocyte‐based cell culture as in vitro alternatives for chemical testing: activating enzymes (Phase I)

“…The largest difference in COX activities is seen between immortalized and non‐immortalized cellular systems: PGE 2 production is clearly lower in immortalized than in primary cells or native skin (Figs 1f and 4). Therefore, for example, EPI‐200 and HaCaT PGE 2 production was found to be very similar to COX metabolism rates reported by others (55,56). One possibility causing differences in COX activity – as already discussed for CYP3A – was the presence/absence of serum.…”

Chemical composition and antioxidant activity of essential oils isolated from Colombian plants

“…Essential oils are natural products with many applications and demand in the food, perfumery, cosmetics, pharmaceutical and winery industries, among others (Arbujarai & Natsheh, 2003;Ajose, 2007;Natsch & Wasescha, 2007;Fisher, 2008). These complex mixtures have different pharmacological properties, including antiinflammatory (Tabanca et al, 2007;Tekeoglu, 2007), antibacterial (Ravishankar et al, 2008;Sharififar et al, 2007), antifungal (Farzaneh et al, 2006), protective of the gastrointestinal tract (Monteiro et al, 2007), anticonvulsant (Viana et al, 2000) and antioxidant properties (SafaeiGhomi et al, 2009;Li et al, 2007;Magwa et al, 2006).…”

Antioxidant capacity of 3D human skin EpiDermTM model: effects of skin moisturizers

“…In the recent years, reconstructed human skin models have been developed and used to test phototoxicity, irritancy, corrosivity, substance transport and the effects of numerous chemical groups [13][14][15][16][17][18][19][20][21]. In fact, the reconstructed human skin models have been proven to be efficient alternatives to animal testing [20], thus, these models are currently widely used.…”