Formaldehyde replacement with glyoxylic acid in semipermanent hair straightening: a new and multidisciplinary investigation

Boga, Carla; Taddei, Paola; Micheletti, Gabriele; Ascari, F.; Ballarin, Barbara; Morigi, Marta; Galli, S.

doi:10.1111/ics.12148

Cited by 25 publications

(35 citation statements)

References 42 publications

(61 reference statements)

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“…Esses procedimentos utilizavam "formol" em sua composição, muitas vezes com mais de 9% deste ingrediente ativo na formulação (DRAHAL, 2010;MC DOUGAL, 2011;BOGA et al,2014).  Prancha alisadora (piastra) marca Taiff, modelo Dual, 120-140Watts;…”

Section: Escovas Progressivas Inteligentes Remodelagem Capilar E Afinsunclassified

Avaliação <i>in vitro</i> do efeito de diferentes processos de alisamento químico/térmico na fibra capilar

Dias¹,

de²

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The appearance of the hair is of fundamental importance in today's society. Being in fashion, hair straight and with less volume, consumers that before straighted hair with chemicals products and mechanical strength began to use a heat treatment, in addition to hair dryers: the hot plates ("chapinhas") acting on temperature values around 230°C. This procedure causes not only mechanical and chemical damage but also thermal one, making the hair more fragile. The scope of this study was to evaluate the damage to the hair fiber, in untreated samples and these receiving straighteners/relaxers application of traditional and alternative products.The study was divided into five chapters that evaluated: application of straighteners/relaxers with different active ingredients; mechanical damage, protein loss; thermal analysis and scanning electron microscopy. The hair samples used in all studies were treated as described in the chapter one. Commercial products containing the following active ingredients were used: Sodium Hydroxide, Ammonium Thioglycolate, Guanidine Hydroxide (calcium hydroxide reaction with guanidine carbonate), Formaldehyde and Glyoxylic Acid alone and in combination with Carbocysteine. The use of Formaldehyde andGlyoxylicAcid in straightening/relaxing formulations are prohibited by the National Agency for Sanitary Vigilance. All applied products, straight the hair samples; the procedures that used the hot plates become the hair more straight. The straightening/relaxing based on Glyoxylic Acid and Formaldehyde reduced significantly the hair break point making them more fragile. Most protein loss was observed in the sample treated with Carbocysteine (1.74mg/g hair).In the thermal analysis studies at the dewatering stage, Carbocystein treated samples showed greater weight loss(15.17%), at the protein denaturation stage this treated with Sodium Hydroxide (51.06%) and in the carbonaceous material elimination phase all samples showed mass loss greater than the untreated sample;. The lower peak temperatures were observed in the samples without treatment (630°C) and with Glyoxylic Acid (640°C). Observing the images of electron microscopy is noted the change in the cuticle aspect of the samples showing that the edges were damaged, Guanidine Hydroxide, left further residue: the samples treated with Glyoxylic Acid and Formaldehyde showed the formation of surface film as an "enveloping" fiber. The results suggest that there is not a predominance of a more harmful treatment than other, but those using hot plates(straightening/relaxing acids) emphasize the damage.

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Section: Escovas Progressivas Inteligentes Remodelagem Capilar E Afinsunclassified

Avaliação <i>in vitro</i> do efeito de diferentes processos de alisamento químico/térmico na fibra capilar

Dias¹,

de²

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“…Carboxylic acids have attracted attention in the development of hair care products for various reasons. Glyoxylic acid is an active ingredient that has been studied for hair straightening (Boga et al, 2014). Leite and Maia Campos (2017), showed that Glyoxylic acid presents good efficacy of straightening, being better than formaldehyde.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Hair straighteners: an approach based on science and consumer profile

Leite

Garbossa

Campos

2018

Braz. J. Pharm. Sci.

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Technological progress has allowed women to change their natural hair configuration according to their will. This type of treatment is very popular around the world, even involving the use of prohibited chemicals, such as formaldehyde. Studies of hair characterization, straighteners and toxic evaluation are available in the literature, although few studies have evaluated the consumer profile or the current legislation of Brazil and the European Union (EU) and its influence on the consumption of hair straighteners. Previous studies from our research group have shown that hair care is essential for the quality of life and well-being of women. Within this context, the present study aimed to evaluate the profile of Brazilian hair straightener consumers, as well as the legislation of Brazil and the EU and its influence on the use of these products. The consumer profile was evaluated by applying questionnaires and the legislation was examined using documental and bibliographic exploratory research. The results provided a full understanding of the current legislation of Brazil and its similarities to EU legislation. It was observed that over 50% of Brazilians currently use or have previously used hair straightener products, even persons who do not have curly hair, suggesting that straight hair is more attractive for today's society. Although the study participants consider the current legislation to be important, over 40% do not know the active ingredients present in the hair straightener they use. Finally, the legislation is not considered in terms of the daily hair treatment routine, with the esthetic result being more important to the consumer.

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“…9 In the perming process, thioglycolates are directly applied onto the hair. 13,14 Thus, developing non-toxic formulas to substitute the current counterparts becomes imperative. As a result, short-term symptoms, such as allergic dermatitis, are common for many hairdressers.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effects of chemical structures of polycarboxylic acids on molecular and performance manipulation of hair keratin

Song

Xie

et al. 2016

RSC Adv.

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For the first time, we utilized non-toxic polycarboxylic acids in hair perming, and revealed the effects of the chemical structure of polycarboxylic acids on the secondary structure of keratin, and the consequent strength retention and perming effects on the treated hair. Conventional hair perming chemicals were found to be harmful to humans and the environment. However, only in recent years, the adverse effects started to attract public attention. In this study, we discovered that utilizing non-toxic cysteine as a reductant and polycarboxylic acids as crosslinkers could achieve satisfactory hair perming effects and limited loss of hair strength. To quantify the crosslinking efficiency, changes in the amounts of carboxyl groups, amine groups and sulfhydryl groups after different crosslinking treatments were measured via potentiometric and conductometric titrations. The influence of the structures of polycarboxylic acids on the secondary structures of keratin fibers was investigated via wide-angle X-ray diffraction and dynamic mechanical analysis. The a-helix in the secondary structure of hair keratin was partially disrupted, while the amounts of random coil were increased. With an appropriate backbone length, number of carboxyl groups, and number ratio of hydroxyl groups to carboxyl groups, polycarboxylic acids could be optimal for non-toxic hair perming, and have the potential to replace current commercially available harmful hair perming products.

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Formaldehyde replacement with glyoxylic acid in semipermanent hair straightening: a new and multidisciplinary investigation

Cited by 25 publications

References 42 publications

Avaliação <i>in vitro</i> do efeito de diferentes processos de alisamento químico/térmico na fibra capilar

Avaliação <i>in vitro</i> do efeito de diferentes processos de alisamento químico/térmico na fibra capilar

Hair straighteners: an approach based on science and consumer profile

Effects of chemical structures of polycarboxylic acids on molecular and performance manipulation of hair keratin

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