Field observation and numerical analysis of rip currents at Ten-Mile Beach, Hailing Island, China

Hu, Pengpeng; Li, Zhiqiang; Zhu, Daoheng; Zeng, Chunhua; Cheng, Zhaoguang; Su, Qianxin

doi:10.1016/j.ecss.2022.108014

Cited by 4 publications

(4 citation statements)

References 41 publications

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“…As in many prior rip current studies (Bruneau et al., 2011; Hu et al., 2022; Schmidt et al., 2005; Winter et al., 2014), a depth‐ and phase‐averaged (two‐dimensional) model is used here owing to the computational costs of fully 3D or phase‐resolved models. In addition, few 3D or phase‐resolved models include fully coupled surfzone waves and hydrodynamics, and morphological changes.…”

Section: Field Study and Model Setupmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Numerical models reproduce the observed trends in the occurrence, strength, and persistence of channel rip currents for variable wave conditions (Bruneau et al, 2011;Hu et al, 2022;Kumar et al, 2011;Marchesiello et al, 2015;Reniers et al, 2009;Schmidt et al, 2005;Winter et al, 2014). Numerical studies examining flow and bathymetry interactions have focused on predicting rip spacing (Calvete, 2005;Damgaard et al, 2002;Deigaard et al, 1999;Reniers et al, 2004;Valipour & Bidokhti, 2018), and the dependence of rip currents on channel dimensions (Brander, 1999;Castelle et al, 2010;Hong et al, 2021;Kennedy et al, 2008;McCarroll et al, 2018;Winter 2012).…”

mentioning

confidence: 92%

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The Roles of Bathymetry and Waves in Rip‐Channel Dynamics

Christensen,

Raubenheimer,

Elgar

2024

JGR Earth Surface

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The behavior and predictability of rip currents (strong, wave‐driven offshore‐directed surfzone currents) have been studied for decades. However, few studies have examined the effects of rip channel morphology on the rip generation or have compared morphodynamic models with observations. Here, simulations conducted with the numerical morphodynamic model MIKE21 reproduce observed trends in flows and bathymetric evolution for two channels dredged across a nearshore sandbar and terrace on an ocean beach near Duck, NC, USA. Channel dimensions, wave conditions, and flows differed between the two cases. In one case, a strong rip current was driven by moderate height, near‐normally incident waves over an approximately 1‐m deep channel with relatively little bathymetric evolution. In the other case, no rip was generated by the large, near‐normally incident waves over the shallower (∼0.5 m) channel, and the channel migrated in the direction of the mean flow and eventually filled in. The model simulated the flow directions, the generation (or not) of rip currents, and the morphological evolution of the channels reasonably well. Model simulations were then conducted for different combinations of the two channel geometries and two wave conditions to examine the relative importance of the waves and morphology to the rip current evolution. The different bathymetries were the dominant factor controlling the flow, whereas both the initial morphology and wave conditions were important for channel evolution. In addition, channel dimensions affected the spatial distribution of rip current forcings and the relative importance of terms.

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Section: Field Study and Model Setupmentioning

confidence: 99%

mentioning

confidence: 92%

The Roles of Bathymetry and Waves in Rip‐Channel Dynamics

Christensen,

Raubenheimer,

Elgar

2024

JGR Earth Surface

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“…Rip currents are strong, narrow offshore currents caused by wave breaking on nearshore coasts, which are the single largest cause of beach safety incidents globally [1]. Since a rip current can be very high (up to 2 m/s) and can carry a large fluid flow, this has a significant impact on nearshore water exchange, pollutant transport and diffusion, coastal sediment transport, and submarine deformation, as well as on the personal safety of swimmers in the sea [2,3]. Rip currents can lead swimmers into deep offshore water and drown them, and are a dangerous "killer" of coastal visitors, affecting coastal safety [4].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Vertical Distribution of Rip Currents Generated by Intersecting Waves in a Sandbar–Groin Systems

Wang,

Zou,

Liu

et al. 2024

JMSE

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To analyze the impacts of groins, sandbars, and channels on the three-dimensional features of rip currents, we conducted experimental investigations on the vertical distribution of rip currents under intersecting waves along barred beaches with channels. This study employed ADV flow velocity measurements at two distinct locations: within channel and on a sandbar. The results indicate that in nodal sections within channel and on a sandbar, the rip head region manifests surface flow characteristics, characterized by high velocities near water surface. In a rip neck location, the vertical distribution of rip currents on a sandbar exhibits greater variability, whereas within channel, the distribution is more homogeneous. The vertical distribution of rip currents in nodal sections within channel aligns with the logarithmic distribution law. The vertical distributions of the alongshore velocity of rip currents display a consistent pattern of higher at the top and lower at the bottom. However, this pattern varies slightly depending on the wave period. The presence of groins influences the fluctuation characteristics of the alongshore velocity of rip currents by regulating the nearshore circulation system. This results in the alongshore velocity of rip currents in channel pointing towards the groin. In contrast, the alongshore velocity of rip currents on sandbar, situated farther away from groin, exerts a weaker effect on the alongshore velocity of a rip current.

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“…Zhang et al [13] conducted research on bay and sandbar channel topography, which is particularly susceptible to rip current hazards, and they explored variations in rip currents under the influence of tides and wave modulation. Hu et al [14] assessed rip current hazards on Hailing Island, China, considering factors such as water depth, tidal level and sediment dynamics. Shin et al [15] investigated Haeundae Beach, Busan, using a Boussinesq phase-resolution model, providing insights into the multifaceted mechanism of rip current generation and the role of channels.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Study on the Formation Characteristics and Disaster Mitigation Mechanisms of Rip Currents on Arc-Shaped Beach

Ji,

Xu,

Ren

et al. 2023

JMSE

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Rip currents are fast offshore currents generated during the breaking process of waves propagating nearshore, posing a potential life safety threat to coastal bathers. This study utilizes a Boussinesq phase-resolving model to investigate the formation mechanism of rip currents at Dadonghai Beach, based on its actual topography, and explores the characteristics of rip current formation under various wave conditions, with an emphasis on analyzing vortices, the mean water level and the spatial distribution of average velocity. The results indicate that rip current formation is significantly influenced by wave height and period. The increase in wave height and period results in more intense rip currents and higher water level fluctuations on arc-shaped beaches and on both sides of the bay, leading to complex vortex distributions. An increase in the angle of wave incidence hinders rip current formation in arc-shaped beach areas but is favorable to the generation of deflection rips on both sides of the bay. Furthermore, an increase in bottom friction inhibits rip current formation. When the water depth decreases in the channels, rip currents transition into longshore currents. The findings of this research offer valuable scientific insights into the formation mechanisms of rip currents and contribute to their prediction and prevention.

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Field observation and numerical analysis of rip currents at Ten-Mile Beach, Hailing Island, China

Cited by 4 publications

References 41 publications

The Roles of Bathymetry and Waves in Rip‐Channel Dynamics

The Roles of Bathymetry and Waves in Rip‐Channel Dynamics

Vertical Distribution of Rip Currents Generated by Intersecting Waves in a Sandbar–Groin Systems

Study on the Formation Characteristics and Disaster Mitigation Mechanisms of Rip Currents on Arc-Shaped Beach

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