Fashion and desire: A Kantian critique

Abstract

By probing into how desire is involved in fashion phenomena, this article illuminates Willkür in tandem with desire. It first analyzes how the higher and lower faculties of desire, spelled out by Immanuel Kant, play a role in fashion, unveiling how fashion as a form of social relations exists in concert with the higher faculty of desire, which has a close connection with Willkür. This article maintains that the arbitrary choice manifested in and through fashion is illustrative of Willkür, on the grounds that it results from a self-conscious deliberation, demonstrating the ‘reflective distance’ from our incentives. Christine M. Korsgaard’s elucidation of the relationship between ‘reflective distance’ and self-consciousness helps formulate this argument. However, this article also discusses the foibles of Korsgaard’s reading of Kant, in particular in the area of theory of action. By doing so, this article argues that reason is not the only factor with which we make choices and take actions within the bounds of which freedom is secured, and that fashion allows us to comprehend not only how the power of choice, independent from necessitation by sensible impulses, exercises its freedom, but also how personal autonomy is related to Kant’s negative concept of freedom.