Fabric and Garment Drape Measurement - Part 2

Abstract

This paper aims to make a comprehensive review of measurement methods developed for evaluating fabric and garment drape. Drapemeters used for evaluating drapeability since Pierce's bending length tester are reviewed. Parameters proposed for measuring drapeability are also considered. The authors propose that using flat fabric methods does not accurately reflect the drape of fabrics when worn. The paper is a pre-cursor to a new image analysis technique which will be reported in Part 2.

Investigating Garment Drape Behaviour

“…However, it is possible that parameters other than those mentioned and introduced by Sanad et al [13] could influence garment drape. In this paper, we therefore studied the prediction of garment drape ranking using these drape parameters.…”

“…The average of each drape parameter of 5 photos for each sample/image was used to represent the sample. These are listed in Sanad et al 2013 study [13].…”

“…It was indicated that most of the drape parameters measured for the fabric had weak correlations with the relative values from garments. They indicated that measuring apparel drape should be carried out using a garment [13].…”

“…The garments were photo captured from below while suspended on a mannequin. Images taken for garments were assessed visually (Sanad et al 2013) using a panel of expert judges consisting of 20 individuals. They were asked to order each group of images from the most drapeable (highly deformed shape) sample to the least.…”

Fabric objective measurement and drape

“…Image analysis was then carried out on the images captured by camera from below the garments suspended on a mannequin. They proved conclusively that there was a very poor correlation between fabric and garment drape values.They went on to derive an equation to predict drape rank scores for garments depending on circularity and wavelength minimum [121][122][123]. Importantly existing tests of drape use templates which do not represent cross section of the body at even key locations.…”