“…It is able to account for both nonlinear and dispersive effects at intermediate water level. At a laboratory scale, Boussinesq models combined with some semiempirical breaking wave and bottom friction models have been proven to be able to simulate the motions of regular waves (Skotner and Apelt, 1999;Yao et al, 2012), irregular waves (Nwogu and Demirbilek, 2010;Yao et al, 2016Yao et al, , 2019 and infragravity waves (Su et al, 2015;Su and Ma, 2018) over fringing reef profiles.…”