“…Pelinovsky [4,8,9], which include the analytical solutions (for non-breaking waves) and the data of laboratory and numerical investigations. The experiments were performed in the Large Wave Flume of the University of Hannover, using a wave flume consisting of a segment with a constant depth h 0 = 3.5 m and length x s = 250 m, adjacent to a plane slope 1 : 6 which was positioned near the right boundary of the flume [3]. The numerical computation in [4] were done using the software package CLAWPACK [10].…”
Section: Numerical Resultsmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Here the distributions from the work [4] appear to be higher. 2) and |R|/A -in the run-down phases (3,4), computed with the TVD+SPH method (1, 3) and [4] (2, 4); the domain of applicability of the analytical solution [13] is marked by grey color…”
Section: Numerical Resultsmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…The first part of the paper briefly describes the problem formulation; the second part presents the results of the numerical modelling of the wave processes, which were investigated experimentally in the Large Wave Flume of the University of Hannover [3]. The obtained results are compared with those of the numerical modelling by the research group of Prof. E.N.…”
“…Pelinovsky [4,8,9], which include the analytical solutions (for non-breaking waves) and the data of laboratory and numerical investigations. The experiments were performed in the Large Wave Flume of the University of Hannover, using a wave flume consisting of a segment with a constant depth h 0 = 3.5 m and length x s = 250 m, adjacent to a plane slope 1 : 6 which was positioned near the right boundary of the flume [3]. The numerical computation in [4] were done using the software package CLAWPACK [10].…”
Section: Numerical Resultsmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Here the distributions from the work [4] appear to be higher. 2) and |R|/A -in the run-down phases (3,4), computed with the TVD+SPH method (1, 3) and [4] (2, 4); the domain of applicability of the analytical solution [13] is marked by grey color…”
Section: Numerical Resultsmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…The first part of the paper briefly describes the problem formulation; the second part presents the results of the numerical modelling of the wave processes, which were investigated experimentally in the Large Wave Flume of the University of Hannover [3]. The obtained results are compared with those of the numerical modelling by the research group of Prof. E.N.…”
“…We shall use for clarity the char acteristic sizes of the Large Wave Channel of the Han nover University in Germany with a slope equal to 1 : 6 and a depth of 3.5 m, taking into account that recently a series of experiments on wave run up on a flat beach was performed there [19].…”
Section: Run Up Of a Solitary Wave On A Flat Slope Of The Beachmentioning
We study the run up of long solitary waves of different polarities on a beach in the case of compos ite bottom topography: a plane sloping beach transforms into a region of constant depth. We confirm that nonlinear wave deformation of positive polarity (wave crest) resulting in an increase in the wave steepness leads to a significant increase in the run up height. It is shown that nonlinear effects are most strongly pro nounced for the run up of a wave with negative polarity (wave trough). In the latter case, the run up height of such waves increases with their steepness and can exceed the amplitude of the incident wave.Keywords: surface waves in water, run up of long waves on a coast, plane beach, wave shape, wave polarity
“…The probabilities of occurrence of different single wave heights are at best approximated either by a Rayleigh (Longuet-Higgins, 1952), Weibull (Forristall, 1978 or Tayfun distribution (Socquet-Juglard et al, 2005). The probability distribution of run-up heights usually follows the relevant distribution for incident wave heights (Denissenko et al, 2011) but can be approximated by a Rayleigh distribution even if the approaching wave field does not represent a Gaussian process (Denissenko et al, 2013). The empirical probabilities of average or significant wave heights in various offshore conditions usually resemble either a Rayleigh or a Weibull distribution (Muraleedharan et al, 2007;Feng et al, 2014), while Pareto-type distributions are more suitable for the analysis of meteotsunami heights (Bechle et al, 2015).…”
Abstract. The phenomenon of wave set-up may substantially
contribute to the formation of devastating coastal flooding in certain
coastal areas. We study the appearance and properties of empirical
probability density distributions of the occurrence of different set-up
heights on an approximately 80 km long section of coastline near Tallinn in
the Gulf of Finland, eastern Baltic Sea. The study area is often
attacked by high waves propagating from various directions, and the typical
approach angle of high waves varies considerably along the shore. The
distributions in question are approximated by an exponential distribution
with a quadratic polynomial as the exponent. Even though different segments
of the study area have substantially different wave regimes, the leading
term of this polynomial is usually small (between −0.005 and 0.005) and
varies insignificantly along the study area. Consequently, the distribution
of wave set-up heights substantially deviates from a Rayleigh or Weibull
distribution (that usually reflect the distribution of different wave
heights). In about three-quarters of the occasions, it is fairly well
approximated by a standard exponential distribution. In about 25 % of the
coastal segments, it qualitatively matches a Wald (inverse Gaussian)
distribution. The Kolmogorov–Smirnov test (D value) indicates that the
inverse Gaussian distribution systematically better matches the empirical
probability distributions of set-up heights than the Weibull, exponential, or
Gaussian distributions.
scite is a Brooklyn-based organization that helps researchers better discover and understand research articles through Smart Citations–citations that display the context of the citation and describe whether the article provides supporting or contrasting evidence. scite is used by students and researchers from around the world and is funded in part by the National Science Foundation and the National Institute on Drug Abuse of the National Institutes of Health.