Experimental Investigation of Wave Breaking Criteria Based on Wave Phase Speeds

Stansell, Paul; MacFarlane, C.J.

doi:10.1175/1520-0485(2002)032<1269:eiowbc>2.0.co;2

Cited by 86 publications

(82 citation statements)

References 27 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…Observations show that waves break when the orbital velocity at their crest U c comes close to the phase speed C, with a ratio U c /C > 0.8 for random waves (Tulin and Landrini 2001;Stansell and MacFarlane 2002;Wu and Nepf 2002). It is nevertheless difficult to parameterize the breaking of random waves, since the only available quantity here is the spectral density.…”

Section: Wave Breakingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Semiempirical Dissipation Source Functions for Ocean Waves. Part I: Definition, Calibration, and Validation

Ardhuin

Rogers

Babanin

et al. 2010

Journal of Physical Oceanography

739

681

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

New parameterizations for the spectral dissipation of wind-generated waves are proposed. The rates of dissipation have no predetermined spectral shapes and are functions of the wave spectrum, in a way consistent with observation of wave breaking and swell dissipation properties. Namely, swell dissipation is nonlinear and proportional to the swell steepness, and wave breaking only affects spectral components such that the non-dimensional spectrum exceeds the threshold at which waves are observed to start breaking. An additional source of short wave dissipation due to long wave breaking is introduced, together with a reduction of wind-wave generation term for short waves, otherwise taken from Janssen (J. Phys. Oceanogr. 1991). These parameterizations are combined and calibrated with the Discrete Interaction Approximation of Hasselmann et al. (J. Phys. Oceangr. 1985) for the nonlinear interactions. Parameters are adjusted to reproduce observed shapes of directional wave spectra, and the variability of spectral moments with wind speed and wave height. The wave energy balance is verified in a wide range of conditions and scales, from the global ocean to coastal settings. Wave height, peak and mean periods, and spectral data are validated using in situ and remote sensing data. Some systematic defects are still present, but the parameterizations probably yield the most accurate overall estimate of wave parameters to date. Perspectives for further improvement are also given.

show abstract

Section: Wave Breakingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Semiempirical Dissipation Source Functions for Ocean Waves. Part I: Definition, Calibration, and Validation

Ardhuin

Rogers

Babanin

et al. 2010

Journal of Physical Oceanography

739

681

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…The PIV technique enables one to measure wave kinematics in the proximity of free surface, which was not achievable with conventional experimental methods. Using this property of PIV, some researchers investigated the kinematic breaking criterion of paddle-generated waves [3,19,30]. PIV studies on the breaking criteria of wind-generated waves, however, are very rare though the characteristics of this type of waves may be different from those of mechanically generated waves.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under strong wind action

Mizutani

Suh

et al. 2005

Applied Ocean Research

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

The present study describes an experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under strong wind action. In a wind wave flume, waves were generated using different wind speeds and measured at different locations to obtain wave trains of no, intermittent, or frequent breaking. Water particle movement and free surface elevation were measured simultaneously using a PIV system and a wave gauge, respectively. For wind waves, not all the waves measured at a fixed location are breaking waves, and the breaking of a larger wave is not guaranteed. However, the larger the wave height, the larger the probability of breaking. In order to take as many breaking waves as possible for the cases of frequent breaking, we used the waves whose heights were close to the highest one-tenth wave height. The experimental results showed that the geometric or kinematic breaking criteria could not explain the occurrence of breaking of wind waves. On the other hand, the vertical acceleration beneath the wave crest was close to the previously suggested limit value, K0.5g, when frequent breaking of large waves occurred, indicating that the dynamic breaking criterion would be good for discriminating breaking waves under a strong wind action. q

show abstract

“…In particular, many researchers (Perlin et al [1996], Chang and Liu [1998], Melville and Matusov [2002], Banner and Peirson [2007], Kimmoun and Branger [2007], Tian et al [2010], Perlin et al [2013], Shemer [2013]) have adopted the PIV technique to investigate the kinematic criterion; their results show that a wave will break when at crest the ratio of horizontal fluid velocity, denoted by U , and the crest speed, denoted by C, lies in the range between 0.75 to 0.95. Stansell and MacFarlane [2002] examined kinematic criterion by assessing three definitions of the wave speeds, namely the phase speed based on linear wave theory, partial Hilbert transforms of measured surface elevation, and the local position of maximum surface elevation. They found that U/C ≥ 0.95 for spilling breakers and U/C ≥ 0.81 for plunging breakers.…”

Section: Kinematic Breaking Criterionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…To overcome this problem, Stansell and MacFarlane [2002] proposed a specific definition of phase speed based on the partial Hilbert transform with respect to time of the surface elevation of a wave η(x, t). Different from this reference, we use the partial Hilbert transform with respect to x to determine the instantaneous or local of wave number k(x, t).…”

Section: Kinematic Breaking Criterionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Hawassi-ab modelling and simulation of fully dispersive nonlinear waves above bathymetry

Kurnia¹

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

SummaryWater waves propagating from the deep ocean to the coast show large changes in the profile, wave speed, wave length, wave height and direction. The fascinating processes of the physical wave phenomena give challenges in the study of water waves. The motion can exhibit qualitative differences at different scales such as deep water versus shallow water, long waves versus short waves. Therefore, the existing mathematical models are restricted to the limiting cases. This dissertation concerns the development of an accurate and efficient model that can simulate wave propagation in any range of wave lengths, in any water depth and moreover can deal with various inhomogeneous problems such as bathymetry and walls, leading to wave structure interactions.The derivation of the model is based on a variational principle of water waves. The resulting dynamic equations are of Hamiltonian form for wave elevation and surface potential with non-local operators applied to the canonical surface variables. The Hamiltonian is the total energy, i.e the sum of kinetic energy and potential energy. Since the kinetic energy cannot be expressed explicitly in the basic variables an approximation is required. The corresponding approximated Hamiltonian leads to approximated Hamilton equations.The approximate Hamilton equations are expressed in pseudo-differential operators applied to the surface variables. The pseudo-differential operator has a physical interpretation related to the phase velocity. The phase velocity as function of wave length is specified by a dispersion relation. Dispersion is one of the most important physical properties in the description of water waves. Accurate modelling of dispersion is essential to obtain high-quality wave propagation results.Using spatial-spectral methods and a straightforward numerical implementation, accurate and fast performance of the model can be obtained. Moreover, the spatialspectral implementation with the global pseudo-differential operators or a generalization with global Fourier integral operators (FIO) can retain the exact dispersion property of the model. Other numerical implementations with local differential operators such as finite difference or finite element methods require that the dispersion is approximated by an algebraic function. Such an approximation leads to restrictions on the range of wave lengths that are modelled correctly.To deal with practical applications, several extensions of the model are impleviii mented. The model with localization methods in the global FIO can deal with localized effects such as breaking waves, partially or fully reflective walls, submerged bars, run-up on shores, etc. The inclusion of a fixed-structure in the spatial-spectral setting is a challenging task. The method as presented here perhaps serves as a first contribution in this topic. An extended eddy viscosity breaking model and a breaking kinematic criterion are used for the wave breaking mechanism. The extended eddy viscosity breaking model can deal with fully dispersive waves. The...

show abstract

Experimental Investigation of Wave Breaking Criteria Based on Wave Phase Speeds

Cited by 86 publications

References 27 publications

Semiempirical Dissipation Source Functions for Ocean Waves. Part I: Definition, Calibration, and Validation

Semiempirical Dissipation Source Functions for Ocean Waves. Part I: Definition, Calibration, and Validation

Experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under strong wind action

Hawassi-ab modelling and simulation of fully dispersive nonlinear waves above bathymetry

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About