Evaluation of the Biological Activity of Hydrogel with Cornus mas L. Extract and Its Potential Use in Dermatology and Cosmetology

Abstract

Due to the growing popularity of herbal extract-loaded hydrogels, this study assessed the biological activity of extracts and hydrogels containing three types (water (WE), water–ethanol (EE) and water–glycerin (GE)) of Cornus mas L. (dogwood) extracts. The content of biologically active compounds in the extracts was assessed using the UPLC-DAD-MS technique. Antioxidant properties were assessed by using DPPH and ABTS radicals and measuring the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species. Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests were used to measure the cytotoxicity of the tested samples on skin cells—fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Cell migration and the anti-aging activity of the tested extracts and hydrogels were assessed. Transepidermal water loss and skin hydration after applying the hydrogels to the skin were also determined. A chromatographic analysis revealed that the extracts contained polyphenols, including gallic, caftaric, protocatechuic, chlorogenic, ellagic and p-coumaroylquinic acids, as well as iridoids, with loganic acid as the predominant component. Additionally, they contained cyanidin 3-O-galactoside, pelargonidin 3-O-glucoside and quinic acid. The obtained results show that the tested extracts and hydrogels had strong antioxidant properties and had a positive effect on the viability of skin cells in vitro. Additionally, it was shown that they stimulated the migration of these cells and had the ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase. Moreover, the tested hydrogels increased skin hydration and prevented transepidermal water loss. The obtained results indicate that the developed hydrogels may be effective delivery systems for phytochemicals contained in dogwood extracts.

Investigating the Anti-Inflammatory Properties and Skin Penetration Ability of Cornelian Cherry (Cornus mas L.) Extracts

“…However, there are no reports in the literature on the possibility of penetration of the active substances contained in these fruits through the skin. Our previous research confirmed its antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging effects [2][3][4]. These properties therefore indicate that C. mas can be an extremely valuable raw material used in the development of new recipes for cosmetic preparations.…”

“…Whereas, in the extracts applied to the skin, the content of the polyphenols ranges from 33.37 ± 4.70 µg•mL −1 for the RE70 to 135.25 ± 7.22 µg•mL −1 for the DRE70 (Figure 3). Many previous studies report high antioxidant activity of C. mas L. fruits extracts [2,13,29,38]; therefore, this fruit can be used as an ingredient in preparations providing antioxidants to the skin. In the case of some plant substances, contained in cosmetics preparations, their greater accumulation in the skin is preferred, as, through their antioxidant activity, they could show, among others, anti-aging and anti-inflammatory effects [39].…”

“…Close values of this compound were identified in a previous study in which water, water-glyceric and waterethanolic extracts were analyzed. The tested extracts contained gallic acid in amounts ranging from 9.73 ± 0.41 to 36.41 ± 1.91 µg/mL [2]. While, in another study, characterization of 11 Montenegrin local or introduced genotypes and cultivars collected in the wild or from organic orchards is provided, wherein gallic acid was significantly highest in the local genotypes (6.80 ± 0.36 mg/100 g) [33].…”

“…Scientific research also demonstrates a positive effect of biologically active compounds present in dogwood fruits on skin cells, which indicates their potential use in cosmetology and dermatology [2,29]. The difference in the content of biologically active compounds in dogwood fruits of different colors may significantly affect the biological activity of the obtained extracts.…”

“…Differences in both the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity of dogwood varieties with different fruit colors are related to the different content of biologically active compounds such as polyphenols, anthocyanins, flavonoids, and iridoids [16]. Phenolic compounds are extremely valuable bioactive compounds of plant origin with a wide range of biological properties [2]. They have a positive effect on health mainly due to their antioxidant properties and the ability to inhibit inflammatory processes [17].…”