2019
DOI: 10.5194/nhess-19-2295-2019
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Ensemble models from machine learning: an example of wave runup and coastal dune erosion

Abstract: Abstract. After decades of study and significant data collection of time-varying swash on sandy beaches, there is no single deterministic prediction scheme for wave runup that eliminates prediction error – even bespoke, locally tuned predictors present scatter when compared to observations. Scatter in runup prediction is meaningful and can be used to create probabilistic predictions of runup for a given wave climate and beach slope. This contribution demonstrates this using a data-driven Gaussian process predi… Show more

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Cited by 39 publications
(17 citation statements)
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“…Dune vegetation helps to trap dune directed aeolian sediment supply [15,16] and also stabilizes the dune from erosion by wind [17] and waves [18]. Waves are typically considered from an erosive perspective in relation to dune systems e.g., [19][20][21][22][23][24][25]; however, there is a recognition that wave-driven onshore transport can provide sediment reservoirs that subsequently can nourish dunes through aeolian transport [26][27][28]. Spatial variation in foredune evolution has been noted over a range of scales [29][30][31][32].…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Dune vegetation helps to trap dune directed aeolian sediment supply [15,16] and also stabilizes the dune from erosion by wind [17] and waves [18]. Waves are typically considered from an erosive perspective in relation to dune systems e.g., [19][20][21][22][23][24][25]; however, there is a recognition that wave-driven onshore transport can provide sediment reservoirs that subsequently can nourish dunes through aeolian transport [26][27][28]. Spatial variation in foredune evolution has been noted over a range of scales [29][30][31][32].…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…NOAA Wavewatch III, Deltares Global Flood Forecasting and Information System, Aviso Global Tide FES model) can provide deepwater wave, tide and surge information along coastlines where these are not measured locally, however the estimation of wave setup and runup is still likely to be dependent on calculations of sitespecific wave transformation in the nearshore (da Silva et al, 2020). Probabilistic methods such as ensembles (Beuzen et al, 2019a), Monte Carlo (Davidson et al, 2017) and Bayesian networks (Beuzen et al, 2018) are practical approaches that enable uncertainty in local morphology and storm hydrodynamics to be appropriately considered. As the availability of routine coastal observations spanning regional scales continues to expand and modelling tools improve, implementation of the Storm Hazard Matrix within the context of operational Early Warning Systems has the potential to deliver forecasts of coastal storm hazards spanning both wave-dominated and surge-dominated coasts.…”
Section: Synthesis and Future Directionsmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Given the wealth of available ML algorithms in open-access software, geomorphologists have an unprecedented set of available tools for data exploration and hypothesis testing. Machine learning allows us to teach a computer to learn by example, usefully approximating quantities from readily obtainable data that are otherwise hard to sense , parameterize [Ni et al, 2021, Beuzen et al, 2019, Tinoco et al, 2015, flag for quality control [Sugiura and Hosoda, 2020], or to visualize or make automated inference on high-dimensional datasets that a human could not Stockdon, 2012, Chmiel et al, 2021], especially for phenomena without well-developed theory [Fox et al, 2015, Goldstein and. However, the generation of the right type of examples for the machine to learn, or enough of sufficient quality, is a challenge that requires the development of specialist data labeling tools.…”
Section: The Need For Data Labeling Tools For Earth Surface Processes Researchmentioning
confidence: 99%